Now You Know Garment Washing: An Effective Process for Beautification of Garments (Part-7)

Garment Washing: An Effective Process for Beautification of Garments (Part-7)

Rahat Khan
Dept. of Apparel Manufacturing
Atish Dipankar University of Science and Technology
Cell: +8801717781833
Email: rahat.info@gmail.com

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5.1.3 Color fastness to rubbing
This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored textile to a specific crock meter test cloth for rubbing (dry and wet state).

Equipment:

Suitable crock meter
Cotton rubbing cloth (desized, bleached without finish)
Gray scale for staining

An Effective Process for Beautification of Garments Now You Know Garment Washing: An Effective Process for Beautification of Garments (Part-7)

Fig-22: Crock meter

Test specimen:

If the textile to be tested is fabric:
Two pieces 14cmX5cm are required for dry rubbing & two for wet rubbing. One specimen of each pair shall have the long direction parallel to the warp yarn & the other parallel to the weft yarns.

Test procedure:

Dry rubbing test:

At first the sample of 14cm was cut for warp & 5cm for weft direction.
The test sample was locked on to the base of the crock meter so that it lies flat & tight for testing.
Then the length & width direction of the test specimen was kept parallel to the direction in which the rubbing is to be conducted
Then the spiral clip was used to set a 5cmX5cm of the white, cotton rubbing test cloth to the finger of the crock meter. The weave of the test cloth should be parallel to the direction of rubbing.
Then the covered finger was lowered on to the test sample.
Then the hand crank was turned & 10 complete cycle of the crank was completed
Then the white rubbing test cloth was removed from the finger
Then color transfer was evaluated by using grey scale for staining under standard lighting

Fig-23: After crocking test (dry sample)

Wet rubbing test:

At first the sample of 14cm was cut for warp & 5cm for weft direction.
The test sample was locked on to the base of the crock meter so that it lies flat & tight for testing.
Then the length & width direction of the test specimen was paralleled to the direction in which the rubbing is to be conducted
Then the spiral clip set was used, a 5cmX5cm square of the white, cotton rubbing test cloth to the finger of the crock meter. The weave of the test cloth should be parallel to the direction of rubbing.
Then the covered finger was lowered on to the test sample.
The hand crank was turned & 10 complete cycle of the crank was made.
Then the white rubbing test cloth was removed from the finger.
Then another sample of white cotton test cloth was wetted in the distilled water. The wet sample should wet with 100% take-up.
Then the cotton test cloth was dried in air
Then the rubbing test cloth was removed from the finger & color transfer was evaluated by using the grey scale for testing under standard light.

Fig-24: After crocking test (wet sample)

Evaluation:
The contrast between white rubbing cloth was compared with the staining grey scale & rated from 1-5 & changing in the tested specimen with changing grey scale.

Test report:
1. For dry rubbing test:

One rating (1-5) for warp direction
Another (1-5) for weft direction

2. Wet rubbing test

One rating (1-5) for warp direction
Another (1-5) for weft direction

Experimental data:

1. For denim fabric without wash:

Staining	No.	Length wise	Width wise
Dry	1	¾	¾
	2	3	¾
	3	4/5	4
Wet	4	¾	2
	5	½	½
	6	1	2

Average grade/ range of testing: 1-5 grades
Interpretation of grade: (5) Excellent, (4) Good, (3) Fair, (2) Poor, (1) Very poor

2. For enzyme wash:

Staining	No.	Length wise	Width wise
Dry	1	5	4/5
	2	4/5	5
	3	4/5	4/5
Wet	4	2	2/3
	5	½	3
	6	2/3	2

Average grade/ range of testing: 1-5 grades
Interpretation of grade: (5) Excellent, (4) Good, (3) Fair, (2) Poor, (1) Very poor

3. For light bleach:

Staining	No.	Length wise	Width wise
Dry	1	5	5
	2	5	5
	3	5	5
Wet	4	¾	¾
	5	3	4
	6	¾	4

Average grade/ range of testing: 1-5 grades
Interpretation of grade: (5) Excellent, (4) Good, (3) Fair, (2) Poor, (1) Very poor

4. For stone enzyme:

Staining	No.	Length wise	Width wise
Dry	1	4/5	4/5
	2	5	4/5
	3	4/5	5
Wet	4	2	½
	5	2	2
	6	2	2

Average grade/ range of testing: 1-5 grades
Interpretation of grade: (5) Excellent, (4) Good, (3) Fair, (2) Poor, (1) Very poor

5. For medium bleach:

Staining	No.	Length wise	Width wise
Dry	1	5	4/5
	2	4/5	4/5
	3	5	5
Wet	4	2/3	3
	5	3	¾
	6	2/3	3

Average grade/ range of testing: 1-5 grades
Interpretation of grade: (5) Excellent, (4) Good, (3) Fair, (2) Poor, (1) Very poor

6. For hand whicker:

Staining	No.	Length wise	Width wise
Dry	1	4/5	4/5
	2	4/5	4/5
	3	4/5	5
Wet	4	¾	3
	5	3	2
	6	2/3	2

Average grade/ range of testing: 1-5 grades
Interpretation of grade: (5) Excellent, (4) Good, (3) Fair, (2) Poor, (1) Very poor

7. For pattern whicker:

Staining	No.	Length wise	Width wise
Dry	1	5	4/5
	2	5	5
	3	5	4/5
Wet	4	3	2
	5	3	2/3
	6	3/4	2

Average grade/ range of testing: 1-5 grades
Interpretation of grade: (5) Excellent, (4) Good, (3) Fair, (2) Poor, (1) Very poor

8. For potassium permanganate: