Yaa Sewing Department Inwards Garment Industry
Friday, 14 December 2018
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Sewing Section inwards Garment Industry
Mohammad Sajjadul Karim Bhuiyan
BGMEA University of Fashion as well as Technology
Email: sajjadulkarim7@gmail.com
BGMEA University of Fashion as well as Technology
Email: sajjadulkarim7@gmail.com
Sewing section:
The sewing process is the attachment of dissimilar parts of the cutting pieces. In this run house at that topographic point are many operators who perform unmarried operation. All this element decides what parts of garment tin live sewn at that station.
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| Figure 1- Work going on sewing department |
- Single Needle Lock Stitch machine
- Double needle Lock stitch machine
- Vertical Lock stitch machine
- Single needle Chain Stitch machine
- Pointer (collar. Cuff)
- Halamark m/c
- Overclock Machine ( 5Thread )
- Feed off the Arm machine
- Flat bet fusing machine
- Continuous fusing Machine
- Kansai machine etc.
Process menstruum of sewing section:
Working agency of sewing floor:
Product Analysis & laid target for Line: Here unremarkably honour the critical functioning of theproduct yesteryear analyzing the production as well as determine where remove help, which operator industrial plant on which operation. After analyzing the production trouble target is laid for per hr production. Line supervisor Monitoring target production achieving or not.
Set upward machine layout on the footing of Target: On the footing of functioning layout as well as target of per line, machine layout is setup to ensuring target per hr production.
Line balancing: Line balancing is a tool used for production trouble to capacitate the menstruum trouble of production. If trouble is non balanced properly, required target number volition non live achieved properly. Some run accept higher run load, simply about accept lower charge which caused bottleneck inwards the line.
Bundle Input to Line: After ensuring trouble balancing, , parcel wise cutting panel input to trouble every bit per pre-determined agency to workers.
Sewing: Workers sew together dissimilar parts every bit per pre-determined agency according to machine layout for ensuring correct functioning is made yesteryear correct machine as well as correct operator.
Online Quality check: In this stage, front end as well as dorsum business office sewing character checked yesteryear on-line character inspector .if institute whatever defect, ship the garment to that operator who sew together the defective for repair the sewing faults.
End trouble Quality check: Here Full garments of both within as well as exterior checked properly to ensure the garments is defect free. If institute whatever defect, repair that defect yesteryear who are responsible for that defect. Here also count the trunk to comparison if target is achieved or not.
Body sends to finishing section: After halt trouble character inspector, garments are sending to finishing department for finished the trunk for shipment every bit per buyer’s requirements.
Process Breakdown of basic Shirt (Full Sleeve):
Table 5- Basic Shirt Manufacturing Process
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| Figure 2- Diagram inwards how sewing department perform |
Product Analysis & laid target for Line: Here unremarkably honour the critical functioning of theproduct yesteryear analyzing the production as well as determine where remove help, which operator industrial plant on which operation. After analyzing the production trouble target is laid for per hr production. Line supervisor Monitoring target production achieving or not.
Set upward machine layout on the footing of Target: On the footing of functioning layout as well as target of per line, machine layout is setup to ensuring target per hr production.
Line balancing: Line balancing is a tool used for production trouble to capacitate the menstruum trouble of production. If trouble is non balanced properly, required target number volition non live achieved properly. Some run accept higher run load, simply about accept lower charge which caused bottleneck inwards the line.
Bundle Input to Line: After ensuring trouble balancing, , parcel wise cutting panel input to trouble every bit per pre-determined agency to workers.
Sewing: Workers sew together dissimilar parts every bit per pre-determined agency according to machine layout for ensuring correct functioning is made yesteryear correct machine as well as correct operator.
Online Quality check: In this stage, front end as well as dorsum business office sewing character checked yesteryear on-line character inspector .if institute whatever defect, ship the garment to that operator who sew together the defective for repair the sewing faults.
End trouble Quality check: Here Full garments of both within as well as exterior checked properly to ensure the garments is defect free. If institute whatever defect, repair that defect yesteryear who are responsible for that defect. Here also count the trunk to comparison if target is achieved or not.
Body sends to finishing section: After halt trouble character inspector, garments are sending to finishing department for finished the trunk for shipment every bit per buyer’s requirements.
Process Breakdown of basic Shirt (Full Sleeve):
Table 5- Basic Shirt Manufacturing Process
SL No.# | Process name | Machine & Attachment |
Collar | ||
| | Collar plow over business office Fusing | Continues Fusing m/c |
| | Collar complete designing grade on Collar | Pencil as well as pattern |
| | Collar trim | Overclock m/c(without thread as well as needle ) |
| | Collar run stitch (top as well as inwards part) | SNLS |
| | Collar Turn | Hand work |
| | Collar point | Pointer + Collar stay |
| | Collar outline (1/4 plow over stitch) | SNLS |
| | Collar band fusing | Continuous fusing m/c |
| | Collar band hem | SNLS |
| | Finish designing grade on neckband pattern | Pattern .pencil |
| | Collar as well as neckband band attach | SNLS |
| | Collar band turn | Hand work |
| | Collar band (1/4 plow over stitch) | SNLS |
| | Collar Band point | Pointer |
Cuff | ||
| | Cuff fusing | Continuous Fusing machine |
| | Cuff hem | SNLS |
| | Cuff Run stitch | Vertical Lock stitch machine |
| | Cuff plow inwards pair | Hand word |
| | Cuff outline (1/4 plow over stitch) | SNLS |
Front part | ||
| | Front Pair tuck + attention label joint | SNLS |
| | Front BTN placket make | Kansai machine + folder |
| | Front Placket Fusing | Flatbed fusing machine |
| | Box placket make | SNLS + Folder |
| | Pocket positioning | Pattern |
| | PKT Rolling | SNLS |
| | PKT iron + scissoring | Iron + scissor |
| | PKT Attach to front end + placket close | SNLS |
Back part | ||
| | Main as well as size label joint | SNLS |
| | Label attach to Bk part | SNLS |
| | Yoke attach to BK part | SNLS |
| | Yoke plow over stitch | SNLS |
Sleeve part | ||
| | Gamble attach to body | SNLS |
| | SLV placket plication as well as iron | Iron + folder |
| | SLV Placket attach | SNLS |
Assembly | ||
| | Shoulder Joint | SNLS |
| | Shoulder plow over stitch | SNLS |
| | SLV Joint to body | Overlock m/c |
| | Armhole Top stitch | SNLS + Folder |
| | Collar articulation to body | SNLS |
| | Collar Closed | SNLS |
| | Collar to Stitch | SNLS |
| | Side seam | Feed off the arm machine |
| | Cuff attach to SLV | SNLS |
| | Bottom hem | SNLS + Folder |
| | BTN Hole | BTN Holing Machine |
| | BTN Attach | BTN Attaching machine |
- Sewing thread
- Needle
- Sewing Machine
Sewing Defects:
- Needle impairment
- Skip stitches
- Thread breakages
- Broken stitches
- Seam puckering
- Pleated seam
- Wrong stitch density
- Uneven stitch density
- Staggered stitch
- Improperly formed stitches.
- Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine
- Over lock or over border Stitch Machine
- Button Holing Machine
- Button Attaching Machine
- Feed of the Arm
- Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine
- Single Needle & Double Needle Chain Stitch Machine (with or without border cutter & thread cutting mechanism)
Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine:
- No. of needle: Generally 1 needle or ii needles
- SPM (Stitches per Minute): 1500-5500
- Stitch Length: 5mm inwards Juki
- Automatic Thread Cutting
- Automatic Bobbin Winging
- Edge Cutting System
- Most commonly used for sewing of woven garments.
Over lock or Over border Stitch machine:
- No. of needle: ane or ii needle
- No. of thread: 2-5 threads
- SPM: 6500-8000
- Stitch length: maximum 4mm as well as stitch length tin live changed yesteryear force button.
Button Holing Machine:
- Stitch group: lock or chain stitch
- Arrangement of push hole size beingness modest or larger
- Arrangement of stitch density beingness increased or reduced.
- Button hole tin live made to cutting the hole earlier or later sewing a push hole.
Button Attaching Machine:
- Productions lock stitch, chain stitch or manus stitch.
- Various types push clamps needs for attaching diverse sizes as well as types of button.
- The bottom may live ii or iv holes. iv whole push may live sewed yesteryear cross or parallel.
- If chain stitch is used, the sewing looks nice, but the safety of stitch is comparatively less.
- In illustration of lock stitch used no possibility of sewing opening. But non looks nice. In fully automatic machines, push feeding as well as positioning within the push clamp is performed yesteryear a hopper as well as pipe.
- It tin attach predetermined number of buttons at a predetermined distance inwards acyclic order.
Feed of the Arm:
- Number of needle: ii
- SPM: 3000 -3200
- Number of thread: iv threads
- Twist per inch: fifteen – xx
- Stitch group: chain stitch
- Mainly sewing shirts, Jeans, Gridding goods & double stitching pants
- Number of needle: 6-17
- Number of thread: 12 – 34
- SPM: 4000 – 4500
- Stitch group: Chain Stitch
Chain Stitch Machine:
- No. of needle: ane or to a greater extent than needle
- No. of thread: ane or to a greater extent than thread (Single thread or multi thread)
- SPM: 1800-6000
- Stitch length : 1.4 to 4.5 mm
- Automatic thread trimmer
- Various types of feed machinery is adjusted to the machine. Used inwards knitted wearable as well as jeans.