Now You Know Sewing Section in Garment Industry

Sewing Section in Garment Industry

Mohammad Sajjadul Karim Bhuiyan
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
Email: sajjadulkarim7@gmail.com

Sewing section:
The sewing process is the attachment of different parts of the cut pieces. In this work place there are many operators who perform single operation. All this factor decides what parts of garment can be sewn at that station.

BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology Now You Know Sewing Section in Garment Industry

Figure 1- Work going on sewing section

Machine used in the sewing section:

Single Needle Lock Stitch machine
Double needle Lock stitch machine
Vertical Lock stitch machine
Single needle Chain Stitch machine
Pointer (collar. Cuff)
Halamark m/c
Overclock Machine ( 5Thread )
Feed off the Arm machine
Flat bet fusing machine
Continuous fusing Machine
Kansai machine etc.

You can also follow: Different Types of Garment Sewing Machine with Specification

Process flow of sewing section:

Figure 2- Diagram in how sewing section perform

Working way of sewing floor:

Product Analysis & set up target for Line: Here usually find the critical operation of theproduct by analyzing the product and decide where need help, which operator works on which operation. After analyzing the product line target is set for per hour production. Line supervisor Monitoring target production achieving or not.

Set up machine layout on the basis of Target: On the basis of operation layout and target of per line, machine layout is setup to ensuring target per hour production.

Line balancing: Line balancing is a tool used for production line to capacitate the flow line of production. If line is not balanced properly, required target result will not be achieved properly. Some work have higher work load, some have lower load which caused bottleneck in the line.

Bundle Input to Line: After ensuring line balancing, , bundle wise cut panel input to line as per pre-determined manner to workers.

Sewing: Workers sew different parts as per pre-determined manner according to machine layout for ensuring right operation is made by right machine and right operator.

Online Quality check: In this stage, front and back part sewing quality checked by on-line quality inspector .if found any defect, send the garment to that operator who sew the defective for repair the sewing faults.

End line Quality check: Here Full garments of both inside and outside checked properly to ensure the garments is defect free. If found any defect, repair that defect by who are responsible for that defect. Here also count the body to comparing if target is achieved or not.

Body sends to finishing section: After end line quality inspector, garments are sending to finishing section for finished the body for shipment as per buyer’s requirements.

Process Breakdown of basic Shirt (Full Sleeve):
Table 5- Basic Shirt Manufacturing Process

SL No.#	Process name	Machine & Attachment
Collar
	Collar top part Fusing	Continues Fusing m/c
	Collar finish pattern mark on Collar	Pencil and pattern
	Collar trim	Overclock m/c(without thread and needle )
	Collar run stitch (top and in part)	SNLS
	Collar Turn	Hand work
	Collar point	Pointer + Collar stay
	Collar outline (1/4 top stitch)	SNLS
	Collar band fusing	Continuous fusing m/c
	Collar band hem	SNLS
	Finish pattern mark on collar pattern	Pattern .pencil
	Collar and collar band attach	SNLS
	Collar band turn	Hand work
	Collar band (1/4 top stitch)	SNLS
	Collar Band point	Pointer
Cuff
	Cuff fusing	Continuous Fusing machine
	Cuff hem	SNLS
	Cuff Run stitch	Vertical Lock stitch machine
	Cuff turn in pair	Hand word
	Cuff outline (1/4 top stitch)	SNLS
Front part
	Front Pair tuck + care label joint	SNLS
	Front BTN placket make	Kansai machine + folder
	Front Placket Fusing	Flatbed fusing machine
	Box placket make	SNLS + Folder
	Pocket positioning	Pattern
	PKT Rolling	SNLS
	PKT iron + scissoring	Iron + scissor
	PKT Attach to front + placket close	SNLS
Back part
	Main and size label joint	SNLS
	Label attach to Bk part	SNLS
	Yoke attach to BK part	SNLS
	Yoke top stitch	SNLS
Sleeve part
	Gamble attach to body	SNLS
	SLV placket fold and iron	Iron + folder
	SLV Placket attach	SNLS
Assembly
	Shoulder Joint	SNLS
	Shoulder top stitch	SNLS
	SLV Joint to body	Overlock m/c
	Armhole Top stitch	SNLS + Folder
	Collar joint to body	SNLS
	Collar Closed	SNLS
	Collar to Stitch	SNLS
	Side seam	Feed off the arm machine
	Cuff attach to SLV	SNLS
	Bottom hem	SNLS + Folder
	BTN Hole	BTN Holing Machine
	BTN Attach	BTN Attaching machine

Elements of sewing section:

Sewing thread
Needle
Sewing Machine

Sewing Defects:

Needle damage
Skip stitches
Thread breakages
Broken stitches
Seam puckering
Pleated seam
Wrong stitch density
Uneven stitch density
Staggered stitch
Improperly formed stitches.

For making a Basic Shirt, we need 7 types of sewing machines. They are given below:

Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine
Over lock or over edge Stitch Machine
Button Holing Machine
Button Attaching Machine
Feed of the Arm
Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine
Single Needle & Double Needle Chain Stitch Machine (with or without edge cutter & thread cutting mechanism)

Important sewing machine descriptions are given below:

Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine:

No. of needle: Generally 1 needle or 2 needles
SPM (Stitches per Minute): 1500-5500
Stitch Length: 5mm in Juki
Automatic Thread Cutting
Automatic Bobbin Winging
Edge Cutting System
Most commonly used for sewing of woven garments.

Over lock or Over edge Stitch machine:

No. of needle: one or 2 needle
No. of thread: 2-5 threads
SPM: 6500-8000
Stitch length: maximum 4mm and stitch length can be changed by push button.

Button Holing Machine:

Stitch group: lock or chain stitch
Arrangement of button hole size being small or larger
Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced.
Button hole can be made to cut the hole before or after sewing a button hole.

Button Attaching Machine:

Productions lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.
Various types button clamps needs for attaching various sizes and types of button.
The bottom may be 2 or 4 holes. 4 whole button may be sewed by cross or parallel.
If chain stitch is used, the sewing looks nice, but the security of stitch is comparatively less.
In case of lock stitch used no possibility of sewing opening. But not looks nice. In fully automatic machines, button feeding and positioning inside the button clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.
It can attach predetermined number of buttons at a predetermined distance in acyclic order.

Feed of the Arm:

Number of needle: 2
SPM: 3000 -3200
Number of thread: 4 threads
Twist per inch: 15 – 20
Stitch group: chain stitch
Mainly sewing shirts, Jeans, Gridding goods & double stitching pants

Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine:

Number of needle: 6-17
Number of thread: 12 – 34
SPM: 4000 – 4500
Stitch group: Chain Stitch

Chain Stitch Machine:

No. of needle: one or more needle
No. of thread: one or more thread (Single thread or multi thread)
SPM: 1800-6000
Stitch length : 1.4 to 4.5 mm
Automatic thread trimmer
Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine. Used in knitted wear and jeans.

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