Now You Know Sewing Section in Garment Industry
Wednesday, 23 May 2018
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Sewing Section in Garment Industry
Mohammad Sajjadul Karim Bhuiyan
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
Email: sajjadulkarim7@gmail.com
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
Email: sajjadulkarim7@gmail.com
Sewing section:
The sewing process is the attachment of different parts of the cut pieces. In this work place there are many operators who perform single operation. All this factor decides what parts of garment can be sewn at that station.
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| Figure 1- Work going on sewing section |
- Single Needle Lock Stitch machine
- Double needle Lock stitch machine
- Vertical Lock stitch machine
- Single needle Chain Stitch machine
- Pointer (collar. Cuff)
- Halamark m/c
- Overclock Machine ( 5Thread )
- Feed off the Arm machine
- Flat bet fusing machine
- Continuous fusing Machine
- Kansai machine etc.
Process flow of sewing section:
Working way of sewing floor:
Product Analysis & set up target for Line: Here usually find the critical operation of theproduct by analyzing the product and decide where need help, which operator works on which operation. After analyzing the product line target is set for per hour production. Line supervisor Monitoring target production achieving or not.
Set up machine layout on the basis of Target: On the basis of operation layout and target of per line, machine layout is setup to ensuring target per hour production.
Line balancing: Line balancing is a tool used for production line to capacitate the flow line of production. If line is not balanced properly, required target result will not be achieved properly. Some work have higher work load, some have lower load which caused bottleneck in the line.
Bundle Input to Line: After ensuring line balancing, , bundle wise cut panel input to line as per pre-determined manner to workers.
Sewing: Workers sew different parts as per pre-determined manner according to machine layout for ensuring right operation is made by right machine and right operator.
Online Quality check: In this stage, front and back part sewing quality checked by on-line quality inspector .if found any defect, send the garment to that operator who sew the defective for repair the sewing faults.
End line Quality check: Here Full garments of both inside and outside checked properly to ensure the garments is defect free. If found any defect, repair that defect by who are responsible for that defect. Here also count the body to comparing if target is achieved or not.
Body sends to finishing section: After end line quality inspector, garments are sending to finishing section for finished the body for shipment as per buyer’s requirements.
Process Breakdown of basic Shirt (Full Sleeve):
Table 5- Basic Shirt Manufacturing Process
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| Figure 2- Diagram in how sewing section perform |
Product Analysis & set up target for Line: Here usually find the critical operation of theproduct by analyzing the product and decide where need help, which operator works on which operation. After analyzing the product line target is set for per hour production. Line supervisor Monitoring target production achieving or not.
Set up machine layout on the basis of Target: On the basis of operation layout and target of per line, machine layout is setup to ensuring target per hour production.
Line balancing: Line balancing is a tool used for production line to capacitate the flow line of production. If line is not balanced properly, required target result will not be achieved properly. Some work have higher work load, some have lower load which caused bottleneck in the line.
Bundle Input to Line: After ensuring line balancing, , bundle wise cut panel input to line as per pre-determined manner to workers.
Sewing: Workers sew different parts as per pre-determined manner according to machine layout for ensuring right operation is made by right machine and right operator.
Online Quality check: In this stage, front and back part sewing quality checked by on-line quality inspector .if found any defect, send the garment to that operator who sew the defective for repair the sewing faults.
End line Quality check: Here Full garments of both inside and outside checked properly to ensure the garments is defect free. If found any defect, repair that defect by who are responsible for that defect. Here also count the body to comparing if target is achieved or not.
Body sends to finishing section: After end line quality inspector, garments are sending to finishing section for finished the body for shipment as per buyer’s requirements.
Process Breakdown of basic Shirt (Full Sleeve):
Table 5- Basic Shirt Manufacturing Process
SL No.# | Process name | Machine & Attachment |
Collar | ||
| | Collar top part Fusing | Continues Fusing m/c |
| | Collar finish pattern mark on Collar | Pencil and pattern |
| | Collar trim | Overclock m/c(without thread and needle ) |
| | Collar run stitch (top and in part) | SNLS |
| | Collar Turn | Hand work |
| | Collar point | Pointer + Collar stay |
| | Collar outline (1/4 top stitch) | SNLS |
| | Collar band fusing | Continuous fusing m/c |
| | Collar band hem | SNLS |
| | Finish pattern mark on collar pattern | Pattern .pencil |
| | Collar and collar band attach | SNLS |
| | Collar band turn | Hand work |
| | Collar band (1/4 top stitch) | SNLS |
| | Collar Band point | Pointer |
Cuff | ||
| | Cuff fusing | Continuous Fusing machine |
| | Cuff hem | SNLS |
| | Cuff Run stitch | Vertical Lock stitch machine |
| | Cuff turn in pair | Hand word |
| | Cuff outline (1/4 top stitch) | SNLS |
Front part | ||
| | Front Pair tuck + care label joint | SNLS |
| | Front BTN placket make | Kansai machine + folder |
| | Front Placket Fusing | Flatbed fusing machine |
| | Box placket make | SNLS + Folder |
| | Pocket positioning | Pattern |
| | PKT Rolling | SNLS |
| | PKT iron + scissoring | Iron + scissor |
| | PKT Attach to front + placket close | SNLS |
Back part | ||
| | Main and size label joint | SNLS |
| | Label attach to Bk part | SNLS |
| | Yoke attach to BK part | SNLS |
| | Yoke top stitch | SNLS |
Sleeve part | ||
| | Gamble attach to body | SNLS |
| | SLV placket fold and iron | Iron + folder |
| | SLV Placket attach | SNLS |
Assembly | ||
| | Shoulder Joint | SNLS |
| | Shoulder top stitch | SNLS |
| | SLV Joint to body | Overlock m/c |
| | Armhole Top stitch | SNLS + Folder |
| | Collar joint to body | SNLS |
| | Collar Closed | SNLS |
| | Collar to Stitch | SNLS |
| | Side seam | Feed off the arm machine |
| | Cuff attach to SLV | SNLS |
| | Bottom hem | SNLS + Folder |
| | BTN Hole | BTN Holing Machine |
| | BTN Attach | BTN Attaching machine |
- Sewing thread
- Needle
- Sewing Machine
Sewing Defects:
- Needle damage
- Skip stitches
- Thread breakages
- Broken stitches
- Seam puckering
- Pleated seam
- Wrong stitch density
- Uneven stitch density
- Staggered stitch
- Improperly formed stitches.
- Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine
- Over lock or over edge Stitch Machine
- Button Holing Machine
- Button Attaching Machine
- Feed of the Arm
- Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine
- Single Needle & Double Needle Chain Stitch Machine (with or without edge cutter & thread cutting mechanism)
Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine:
- No. of needle: Generally 1 needle or 2 needles
- SPM (Stitches per Minute): 1500-5500
- Stitch Length: 5mm in Juki
- Automatic Thread Cutting
- Automatic Bobbin Winging
- Edge Cutting System
- Most commonly used for sewing of woven garments.
Over lock or Over edge Stitch machine:
- No. of needle: one or 2 needle
- No. of thread: 2-5 threads
- SPM: 6500-8000
- Stitch length: maximum 4mm and stitch length can be changed by push button.
Button Holing Machine:
- Stitch group: lock or chain stitch
- Arrangement of button hole size being small or larger
- Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced.
- Button hole can be made to cut the hole before or after sewing a button hole.
Button Attaching Machine:
- Productions lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.
- Various types button clamps needs for attaching various sizes and types of button.
- The bottom may be 2 or 4 holes. 4 whole button may be sewed by cross or parallel.
- If chain stitch is used, the sewing looks nice, but the security of stitch is comparatively less.
- In case of lock stitch used no possibility of sewing opening. But not looks nice. In fully automatic machines, button feeding and positioning inside the button clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.
- It can attach predetermined number of buttons at a predetermined distance in acyclic order.
Feed of the Arm:
- Number of needle: 2
- SPM: 3000 -3200
- Number of thread: 4 threads
- Twist per inch: 15 – 20
- Stitch group: chain stitch
- Mainly sewing shirts, Jeans, Gridding goods & double stitching pants
- Number of needle: 6-17
- Number of thread: 12 – 34
- SPM: 4000 – 4500
- Stitch group: Chain Stitch
Chain Stitch Machine:
- No. of needle: one or more needle
- No. of thread: one or more thread (Single thread or multi thread)
- SPM: 1800-6000
- Stitch length : 1.4 to 4.5 mm
- Automatic thread trimmer
- Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine. Used in knitted wear and jeans.