Now You Know Different Tricot Structures with Guide Bars

Different Tricot Structures with Guide Bars

Rofiquzzaman Raju
Fabric Technologist,
B.J.Group, Mawna, Gazipur
Email: rtextile.finance@gmail.com

Fabric produced with two fully threaded guide bars:

In order to produce a warp knitted fabric it is necessary to obtain the information regarding its production.

Many different data items are involves such as-

Information describing the knitting m/c; number of guide bars, m/c gauge, width of the needle bed and special attachments used
Information concerning the type and count of yarn threaded I each guide bar
Lapping movement of each bar
The run-in per rack of each bar
Threading information if the guide bars are not fully and uniformly threaded
Fabric quality and weight
The finishing process

Types of Tricot Structures:

A short description of the above tricot structures are given here....
1. Two bar tricot fabric:

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

1-2/1-0// 1-0/1-2//

The bar tricot is the simplest two bar structure and uses a minimum amount of yarn
Lapping movement of two guide bar in opposite direction and makes closed lap
The two laps balance each other exactly as they cross diagonally in between each wale, producing upright overlaps
It tends to have poor cover and in fire denier and in continuous filament yarn it tends to split between the wales either during tentering or button-holing, especially if acetate or triacetate yarn is used
Run-in ratio is 1:1

2. Locknit fabric:

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

2-3/1-0// 1-0/1-2//

It is the most popular of all warp knitted structures and accounts for 70-80% of total output
Front guide bar – 2 needle space shogging movement i.e. closed lap cord structure and back guide bar – closed lap tricot structure i.e. 1x1 lapping movement. But lapping movement of two guide bar is opposite
The longer underlaps of the front bar improves extensibility, cover, opacity, drape and handle of fabric
Used to produce lingerie and intimate apparel
Shrinkage is generally between 20-30%
Its tendency to curl towards to face and back can be reduced by heat setting
An elasticity fabric for lingerie may be produced on the same gauge, using 40 denier nylon and 40 denier spandex.
Stretch lingerie can be knitted in the same gauge using 44 dtex elastane and 44 dtex nylon
A knitting width of 168″ can be finished between 92 and 100″
The finest lingerie can be knitted in E44 gauge from 22dtex polyester with a wt of 46.1gm/m2.
Run-in ratio is 3:4

3. Reverse locknit:

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

1-2/1-0// 1-0/2-3//

Reverse locknit known as reverse jersey in the USA
Semi staple or semi structure
Front guide bar tricot structure and back guide bar cord structure and lapping mover are opposite
It has reduced extensibility and no curling
Because of the short front guide bar, underlaps, it has a lower shrinkage in finished width.
It has lesser extent than locknit
It is fully reverse of locknit
Run-in ratio – 4:3

4. Satin fabric:

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

3-4/1-0// 1-0/1-2//

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

3-4/1-0// 1-0/1-2//

Lapping movement of front guide bar – longer than locknit structure i.e. closed satin stitch and back guide bar – same to locknit structure of back guide bar. i.e. Tricot structure
Lapping movement of two guide bars are opposite
Technical face is comparatively very lustrous and smooth
Greater elasticity and extensibility and very comfortable to wear
The long floats produce a lusturious light reflective surface. When threaded with continuous filament yarn
Run-in ratio is 5:9

6. Sharkskin:

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

1-2/1-0// 1-0/4-5//

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

1-2/1-0// 1-0/3-4//

Sharkskin is the completely reverse of satin fabric
Front guide bar- Tricot structure & Back guide bar – Satin stitch
Sharkskin is produced by increasing the back guide bar under lap to three or four needle spaces
Properties of this fabric is completely different from satin fabric
Not shrinkage; produce more rigid and heavier fabric
Technical back side is rough surface
Normally useful as a point base
Run-in ratio is 5:3

7. Queenscord:

Lapping diagram:

Chain notation-

1-0/0-1// 3-4/1-0//

Front guide bar – chain stitch & Back guide bar – 3 and 1 or 4 and 1 movement
The front guide bar makes the shortest possible underlay, the pillar stitch tightly ties
Greater rigidity than sharkskin
Fabric shrinkage only 1-6%
Loops are not balanced
Less change of dimension of fabric
No difference between final width and knitted width
Pin stripe effect if colored yarn in front guide bar
Run-in ratio is 9:5

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