Yaa Sewing Car Needles: Types, Parts, Sizes Too Applications
Thursday 13 December 2018
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Sewing Machine Needle as well as Its Purposes:
Needle is the fundamental characteristic of whatever sewing machine. The trend inwards which stuff is pierced yesteryear the needle during stitching has a direct comport upon on the strength of the seam every bit good every bit garment appearance.
The purposes of the sewing needles are to:
The unlike parts of a sewing needle are shown inwards Figure-1.
Every parts of sewing machine needle are described below:
Shank: It is the top percentage of the needle, which positions within the needle bar. It could live designed every bit cylindrical or induce got a apartment side, based on the method of asset it on to the needle bar. It is the principal back upwardly of the entire needle as well as is larger inwards diameter than the remaining business office of the needle to give the strength.
Shoulder: It is the business office in-between the shank as well as the blade, amongst the blade forming the longest percentage of the needle upwardly to the needle eye.
Blade: It undergoes an enormous sum of friction from the stuff through which the needle passes. In instance of needles specifically designed for high-speed sewing, the shoulder is commonly extended into the upper business office of the blade to give a thicker cross section. This organization of reinforced blade strengthens the needle as well as produces the enlarged hole inwards the stuff acre the needle is at its lowest point, hence minimising the friction betwixt it as well as the material. On the other hand, the blade could live designed every bit a tapered one, reducing its diameter gradually from shank to tip to minimise the friction.
Long groove: It gives a shielding channel for the sewing thread acre it is carried downward into the stuff for stitch formation hence reducing the abrasion as well as friction amongst the fabric.
Short groove: It is located on the contrary side of the long groove, that is, towards the claw or looper; it extends slightly inwards a higher house as well as below the needle eye. It assists inwards the formation of the needle thread loop.
Eye: It is the hole or opening inwards the sewing needle, lengthened through the blade along the long as well as brusk grooves on the needle. The profile of within business office of the oculus at the top is vital inwards reducing sewing thread harm as well as inwards producing a adept loop formation.
Scarf: The scarf otherwise known every bit clearance cutting is a nook across the whole confront of the needle similar a shot inwards a higher house the needle eye. Its objective is to facilitate closer setting of the bobbin claw or looper to the needle so that the needle thread loop could live entered to a greater extent than easily yesteryear the betoken of the claw or looper.
Point: It is tapering percentage of the needle created to give a ameliorate penetration of the needle on diverse kinds of fabric. It should live properly selected to forbid harm of the stuff to live sewn.
Tip: It is the ultimate terminate of the point, which combines amongst the betoken inwards defining the penetration surgical operation of the needle.
Special Needles:
Several over-edge as well as security stitch sewing machines utilize curved needles instead of directly needles. These needles are costly though the life of the needle is lesser compared to directly needles. However, the sewing machines utilising curved needles (Figure-2a) could attain higher speeds than yesteryear using directly needles. Blind stitching machines also utilise needles that are curved, but the role hither is to avoid penetration right through the fabric. Sewing machines (pick stitching machine) that simulate manus stitch (class 209) utilise a double-pointed sewing needle amongst an oculus inwards the middle (Figure-2b), through which is threaded the brusk length of thread amongst which this machine sews.
Identification of Sewing Needle:
Three parameters are to a greater extent than often than non used for the identification of sewing needles such every bit system, betoken as well as size.
System:
It describes the elements of a needle to adapt the sewing machine type. Based on the type of sewing machine as well as type of stitch, the needle is designed amongst variants inwards blade length, shank thickness, type of needle eye, etc. It is worthwhile to ensure amongst the sewing machine manufacturer for appropriateness of needle scheme to machine.
Needle Point:
A needle betoken is broadly categorized into 2 types:
Cutting betoken sewing needles induce got spiky tips similar blades as well as a broad attain of cross-sectional profiles such every bit rounded, triangular, foursquare as well as lens exist. They are commonly used to sew together highly dense as well as non-fabric based materials. Five universal kinds of cutting betoken sewing needles are shown inwards Figure-3, along amongst their profile of incision produced when used inwards a machine amongst the commonest threading direction.
The narrow wedge betoken needle: It cuts the stuff at right angles (90°) to the seam management as well as permits to become for a high stitch density (SPI) acre leaving adequate stuff betwixt the needle holes to retain seam strength of material. On soft leather material, stitch densities every bit high every bit 12 per centimetre are achievable. It is the virtually often utilised cutting betoken needle for stitching uppers inwards the shoe industry.
Cloth Point Needles:
These kinds of needles are used for sewing textile materials instead of the leather/sheet materials every bit inwards the instance of cutting betoken needles. The points induce got a circular cross department contrasting to the diverse cutting profiles of the cutting betoken needles as well as the tip at the terminate of the betoken tin vary inwards profile to adapt the item stuff existence sewn.
Slim laid upwardly betoken (SPI): It is to a greater extent than often than non used for sewing denser woven fabrics as well as aids inwards achieving a straighter stitch which could minimise seam pucker. Generally used for heavy woven fabrics, coated fabrics as well as topstitching of collars as well as cuffs.
Medium laid upwardly betoken needle: It is the full general role needle inwards no job sewing situations. It is commonly used for sewing a attain of woven fabrics as well as inwards many circumstances could live used for knitted fabrics also.
Set cloth betoken (R): It is to a greater extent than often than non utilized for sewing touchstone fabrics amongst regular seams.
Acute laid upwardly point: This form of needle is used acre sewing real dense fabrics similar shirting stuff as well as interlining inwards collars as well as cuffs, where a directly business of stitching is required.
Heavy laid upwardly point: These needles are used for sewing buttons every bit the push tin live deflected to to a greater extent than or less extent into the right position; thus, the needle tin overstep through the holes.
Light ball betoken (SES): It tin live used for sewing lightweight knitted stuff as well as densely woven material.
Medium ball betoken (SUK): It is utilised for sewing denim fabrics of medium to coarser weight as well as knits.
Heavy ball betoken (SKF): It is utilised for sewing heavier woven elastic materials every bit good every bit coarser knits.
Special ball betoken (SKL): It could live utilised for sewing heavy knits as well as coarse elastics.
Needle Size:
The needle size is commonly expressed inwards 2 ways. One of the basic methods of representation is yesteryear a metric publish (Nm). This scheme represents the diameter of the needle blade inwards hundredths of a millimetre measured but inwards a higher house the scarf area. For example, a needle size of Nm 100 is 1.0 millimetre inwards diameter every bit shown inwards Figure-5. Another touchstone needle sizing method is the Singer system, otherwise called the American system, which uses a publish that represents a size.
Needles are offered inwards a broad attain of sizes as well as the alternative of needle size is based on the combination of stuff as well as sewing thread which is to live sewn. If the selected sewing needle is likewise minor for the sewing thread size, the thread volition non agree good into the long groove of the needle as well as volition endure from extreme abrasion. The work of likewise fine a needle acre sewing heavy plies of stuff could atomic number 82 to the deflection of the needle, which could influence the stitch loop pick upwardly as well as drive slipped stitches or fifty-fifty needle breakage. Use of a larger sewing needle for the item sewing thread resulted inwards misfortunate command of the loop formation which could atomic number 82 to slipped stitches.
Application of Sewing Machine Needles:
General role needles:
The full general role needles used inwards clothe manufacturing are given inwards Table-1.
Table-1: Application of General Purpose Needles
Specialty needles:
The specialty needles used inwards garment manufacturing are given inwards Table-2.
Table-2: Application of Specialty Needles
Surface Finishing of Sewing Needles:
Sewing needles are commonly made from steel as well as during their concluding manufacturing phase they are polished, specifically inwards the needle oculus area. They are so electroplated using chromium or nickel to supply resistance to mechanical wear, corrosion resistance as well as reduction of friction during sewing. One of the principal requirements of the surface finishing of needles is it should non pick upwardly whatever elements of synthetic stuff or thread which could melt due to excessive rut generation. By considering this aspect, the chromium-plated sewing needles are superior compared to nickel-plated needles.
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Needle is the fundamental characteristic of whatever sewing machine. The trend inwards which stuff is pierced yesteryear the needle during stitching has a direct comport upon on the strength of the seam every bit good every bit garment appearance.
The purposes of the sewing needles are to:
- Make a hole inwards the stuff so that the sewing thread could overstep through it to shape a stitch without causing whatever harm to the stuff acre doing so.
- To ship the needle thread through the stuff to shape a loop. This is so taken upwardly yesteryear the claw inwards a lockstitch machine or yesteryear agency of the looper inwards chain stitch machines.
- Pass the needle thread through the loop created yesteryear the looper machinery on a chain stitch machine.
The unlike parts of a sewing needle are shown inwards Figure-1.
 |
| Figure-1: Parts of a sewing machine needle. |
Shank: It is the top percentage of the needle, which positions within the needle bar. It could live designed every bit cylindrical or induce got a apartment side, based on the method of asset it on to the needle bar. It is the principal back upwardly of the entire needle as well as is larger inwards diameter than the remaining business office of the needle to give the strength.
Shoulder: It is the business office in-between the shank as well as the blade, amongst the blade forming the longest percentage of the needle upwardly to the needle eye.
Blade: It undergoes an enormous sum of friction from the stuff through which the needle passes. In instance of needles specifically designed for high-speed sewing, the shoulder is commonly extended into the upper business office of the blade to give a thicker cross section. This organization of reinforced blade strengthens the needle as well as produces the enlarged hole inwards the stuff acre the needle is at its lowest point, hence minimising the friction betwixt it as well as the material. On the other hand, the blade could live designed every bit a tapered one, reducing its diameter gradually from shank to tip to minimise the friction.
Long groove: It gives a shielding channel for the sewing thread acre it is carried downward into the stuff for stitch formation hence reducing the abrasion as well as friction amongst the fabric.
Short groove: It is located on the contrary side of the long groove, that is, towards the claw or looper; it extends slightly inwards a higher house as well as below the needle eye. It assists inwards the formation of the needle thread loop.
Eye: It is the hole or opening inwards the sewing needle, lengthened through the blade along the long as well as brusk grooves on the needle. The profile of within business office of the oculus at the top is vital inwards reducing sewing thread harm as well as inwards producing a adept loop formation.
Scarf: The scarf otherwise known every bit clearance cutting is a nook across the whole confront of the needle similar a shot inwards a higher house the needle eye. Its objective is to facilitate closer setting of the bobbin claw or looper to the needle so that the needle thread loop could live entered to a greater extent than easily yesteryear the betoken of the claw or looper.
Point: It is tapering percentage of the needle created to give a ameliorate penetration of the needle on diverse kinds of fabric. It should live properly selected to forbid harm of the stuff to live sewn.
Tip: It is the ultimate terminate of the point, which combines amongst the betoken inwards defining the penetration surgical operation of the needle.
Special Needles:
Several over-edge as well as security stitch sewing machines utilize curved needles instead of directly needles. These needles are costly though the life of the needle is lesser compared to directly needles. However, the sewing machines utilising curved needles (Figure-2a) could attain higher speeds than yesteryear using directly needles. Blind stitching machines also utilise needles that are curved, but the role hither is to avoid penetration right through the fabric. Sewing machines (pick stitching machine) that simulate manus stitch (class 209) utilise a double-pointed sewing needle amongst an oculus inwards the middle (Figure-2b), through which is threaded the brusk length of thread amongst which this machine sews.
 |
| Figure-2: Special needle shapes. (a) Blind stitch needle. (b) Pick stitch needle. |
Three parameters are to a greater extent than often than non used for the identification of sewing needles such every bit system, betoken as well as size.
System:
It describes the elements of a needle to adapt the sewing machine type. Based on the type of sewing machine as well as type of stitch, the needle is designed amongst variants inwards blade length, shank thickness, type of needle eye, etc. It is worthwhile to ensure amongst the sewing machine manufacturer for appropriateness of needle scheme to machine.
Needle Point:
A needle betoken is broadly categorized into 2 types:
- Round betoken needle – laid upwardly or cloth points
- Cutting or leather betoken needle
Cutting betoken sewing needles induce got spiky tips similar blades as well as a broad attain of cross-sectional profiles such every bit rounded, triangular, foursquare as well as lens exist. They are commonly used to sew together highly dense as well as non-fabric based materials. Five universal kinds of cutting betoken sewing needles are shown inwards Figure-3, along amongst their profile of incision produced when used inwards a machine amongst the commonest threading direction.
 |
| Figure-3: Cutting betoken needles. |
- The narrow contrary betoken needle: It produces cutting that lies 45° to the seam direction, as well as produces a seam where the thread is turned to the left on the surface of the material.
- The narrow cross betoken needle: It makes a cutting along the business of the seam as well as necessitates a longer stitch length. Heavy decorative seams could live made where thicker sewing threads are used at lower stitch densities, that is, longer stitch length.
Cloth Point Needles:
These kinds of needles are used for sewing textile materials instead of the leather/sheet materials every bit inwards the instance of cutting betoken needles. The points induce got a circular cross department contrasting to the diverse cutting profiles of the cutting betoken needles as well as the tip at the terminate of the betoken tin vary inwards profile to adapt the item stuff existence sewn.
- The contour of the tip of the needle betoken which attains the deflection rather than penetration is a fine ball shape as well as the needle is called a low-cal ball betoken needle which is utilised primarily for sewing knitted fabrics.
- The tip of the needle betoken which attains the penetration has the shape of a cone as well as is known every bit a laid upwardly betoken needle which is utilised for sewing woven fabrics. Both ball as well as laid upwardly betoken needles are available inwards a publish of types, illustrated inwards Figure-4.
 |
| Figure-4: Types of cloth betoken needles. R: laid upwardly cloth point, SPI: slim laid upwardly point, SES: low-cal ball point, SUK: medium ball point, SKF: heavy ball point, SKL: particular ball point. |
Medium laid upwardly betoken needle: It is the full general role needle inwards no job sewing situations. It is commonly used for sewing a attain of woven fabrics as well as inwards many circumstances could live used for knitted fabrics also.
Set cloth betoken (R): It is to a greater extent than often than non utilized for sewing touchstone fabrics amongst regular seams.
Acute laid upwardly point: This form of needle is used acre sewing real dense fabrics similar shirting stuff as well as interlining inwards collars as well as cuffs, where a directly business of stitching is required.
Heavy laid upwardly point: These needles are used for sewing buttons every bit the push tin live deflected to to a greater extent than or less extent into the right position; thus, the needle tin overstep through the holes.
Light ball betoken (SES): It tin live used for sewing lightweight knitted stuff as well as densely woven material.
Medium ball betoken (SUK): It is utilised for sewing denim fabrics of medium to coarser weight as well as knits.
Heavy ball betoken (SKF): It is utilised for sewing heavier woven elastic materials every bit good every bit coarser knits.
Special ball betoken (SKL): It could live utilised for sewing heavy knits as well as coarse elastics.
Needle Size:
The needle size is commonly expressed inwards 2 ways. One of the basic methods of representation is yesteryear a metric publish (Nm). This scheme represents the diameter of the needle blade inwards hundredths of a millimetre measured but inwards a higher house the scarf area. For example, a needle size of Nm 100 is 1.0 millimetre inwards diameter every bit shown inwards Figure-5. Another touchstone needle sizing method is the Singer system, otherwise called the American system, which uses a publish that represents a size.
 |
| Figure-5: Metric needle sizing. |
Application of Sewing Machine Needles:
General role needles:
The full general role needles used inwards clothe manufacturing are given inwards Table-1.
Table-1: Application of General Purpose Needles
Needle | Description | Fabric | Sizes |
Ball-point | It has a medium tip, rounded compared to universal needle | Knits | 70/10 – 100/16 |
Sharp | It has a slim shaft as well as sharper needle point | Fine woven fabrics | 60/8 – 90/14 |
Universal | Needle betoken is marginally rounded; however, it is abrupt plenty to pierce woven fabrics | Woven as well as knitted fabrics | 60/8 – 120/19 |
The specialty needles used inwards garment manufacturing are given inwards Table-2.
Table-2: Application of Specialty Needles
Needle | Description | Fabric | Sizes |
Denim | It has a thicker as well as stronger shaft as well as a abrupt needle point | Denim as well as heavy woven fabrics | 70/10 – 110/18 |
Leather | It has a wedge-shaped needle point | Leather as well as nonwoven fabrics | 80/12 – 110/18 |
Machine embroidery | It has a larger oculus as well as a particular scarf to protect the sewing thread | For embroidery | 70/10 – 90/14 |
Metallic | It has a larger oculus than the embroidery needle, as well as a sharp point to avoid thread breakage | For metallic element threads | 80/12 |
Quilting | It has a tapered every bit good every bit abrupt needle point | Machine quilting | 75/11 as well as 90/14 |
Spring needle | It has a shaft surrounded yesteryear the wire coil, which acts every bit a presser foot | Quilting | |
Stretch needle | It has a deep scarf to avoid skipped stitches | Lightweight knitted fabrics | 75/11 as well as 90/14 |
Topstitch needle | It has an extra-large oculus as well as a large groove | Topstitching | 80/12, 90/14 as well as 100/16 |
Twin needle | It is constructed amongst 2 needles attached to a unmarried shaft | Double topstitching | 1.6/70 – 4.0/100 |
Triple needle | It is constructed amongst 3 needles attached to a unmarried shaft | Triple topstitching | 2.5/80 as well as 3.0/80 |
Hemstitch needle | It has a widened shaft as well as produces a decorative hole inwards tightly woven fabrics | Decorative stitching | 100/16 as well as 120/19 |
Sewing needles are commonly made from steel as well as during their concluding manufacturing phase they are polished, specifically inwards the needle oculus area. They are so electroplated using chromium or nickel to supply resistance to mechanical wear, corrosion resistance as well as reduction of friction during sewing. One of the principal requirements of the surface finishing of needles is it should non pick upwardly whatever elements of synthetic stuff or thread which could melt due to excessive rut generation. By considering this aspect, the chromium-plated sewing needles are superior compared to nickel-plated needles.
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