Yaa Moh Hom Textile: Origin, Production & Application

Moh Hom Textile: Origin, Production & Application

Dr. Disney Singhawuarasate
Assistant Professor,
Rajamangala University of Technology Krungthep (RMUTK)
Email: disney.umist@gmail.com

Introduction:
Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 Moh Hom textile is made of woven cotton fiber threads dyed amongst an indigo dye gained from plants which yield bluish colours, including Hom, Kram, as well as Boek, until all parts of the stuff are the same colour. Indigo hues tin make from dark bluish to lite blue. To dye the Moh Hom cloth, the stuff has to hold out submerged into a outrage containing an indigo dye which is made of different ingredients.

Chok Moh Hom

The Origin of the Moh Hom Textile
Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 Moh Hom cloth is dyed amongst an indigo dye. Indigo dyeing has been well-known all over the public for thousands of years. The dyeing methods are similar elsewhere. The fine art of Moh Hom has been passed on inwards Phrae since to a greater extent than than 1 hundred years ago. It is believed that Moh-Hom came amongst the people who were forced to migrate to Phrae every bit prisoners of state of war as well as became labour slaves during the fourth dimension referred to every bit “putting vegetables into basket, putting slaves into town”, though about migrated voluntarily. Moh-Hom was commencement produced at the Thung Hong hamlet inwards 1797-1807. According to elders who were to a greater extent than than 74 years onetime (in 1991), the Tai Puan people from the Thung Hong hamlet migrated from the metropolis of Puan inwards Xieng Khoung province, inwards present-day Lao PDR, during the reign of King Taksin. Chao Muang Jai, the ruler of Phrae, captured about Tai Lue people from Chiang Saen, who settled inwards the Phra Luang village. During the Rattanakosin period, the Siamese regular army went every bit far every bit Xi Xuang Banna (Sib Song Panna) as well as placed the Tai Lue people at the Ban Tin village. Later on, the Siamese regular army also captured the Lao Puan as well as moved them to the North of Phrae inwards the neighbourhood of the Wat Sawankhaniwet temple. These people moved to the Thung Hong hamlet (the master copy advert of the hamlet is “Tang Hong”. Tang agency anvil as well as Hong is a Tai Puan discussion important a house which is hollowed out, similar to a well-used anvil. The advert refers to the fact that inwards the yesteryear the people hither were generally blacksmiths who used their anvils everyday.). Later the advert of the hamlet was changed to Thung Hong.

The Tai Puan from Thung Hong speaks a dialect as well as holds a large festival called “Kam Fa” annually. Their traditional skills of Moh-Hom fine art receive got brought revenues as well as fame to Phrae.

Art as well as Wisdom of the Moh Hom Textile
In the past, MohHom cloths were made for domestic utilisation only. Firstly, 1 had to grow cotton fiber trees which took almost 120 days earlier the fruits could hold out harvested. The cotton fiber fruit would so hold out sundried as well as seeds taken out. This procedure is known every bit “Eed Fai”. After that the cotton fiber would hold out fluffed amongst a tool called “Aloon” until it resembled candy floss. The fluffed cotton fiber was to hold out rolled into long circular sticks as well as twisted to create yarns using a tool called “La”. The yarns would hold out used for weaving on the loom. The woven stuff would hold out handmade into clothes. It is owing to the dedication of the Tai Puan ancestors that their descendants are living happily nowadays.

Eed Fai Kram

Hom

The utilisation of Hom for dyeing was begun inwards Phrae inwards the PhaeMuang Phi area. After that, people started to grow the Hom plants, which are annual crops, inwards nearby areas which marked the widespread utilisation of Hom for dyeing.

The dyeing procedure done inwards Northern Thailand comprises of different steps. First, soak Hom leaves inwards H2O until they are rotten as well as aroma as well as the H2O turns green. Then, withdraw the rotten leaves as well as position inwards the fresh leaves as well as instruct out them to ferment until the H2O smells stronger as well as turns blue. Next, discard the leaves as well as position about lime inwards the water. Stir until the H2O becomes bubbly as well as turns dark bluish or other desired hues. Filtrate the H2O as well as pour it into a large earthen outrage known every bit “MohHom”. Before dyeing, surely ingredients such every bit turmeric, burnt Som Poi (Acacia concinna), as well as base of operations H2O (gained from mixing ashes amongst alcohols), demand to hold out added to the dyeing jar. In gild to accomplish a beautiful colour, the stuff or the strand demand to hold out dyed several times a day. Normally, the dyeing takes house twice a 24-hour interval for iii consecutive days. In about places amongst meticulous dyers, the dyeing takes house twice a 24-hour interval for 5 days. Mo Hom cloths volition gradually fade when used for a long time. In ancient tradition, 1 time the cloths started to fade they would hold out re-dyed until the fabrics are worn out. This is an ancient Thai wisdom that has been continued for a long menses of time. The dyeing method is aevolution which is gained through experiencing amongst nature. In the past, since at that topographic point were no chemic dyes, all the colours were taken from nature, such every bit from parts of plants, animals, as well as minerals, which were tried as well as tested yesteryear weavers until they became a laid of knowledge.

Fresh Blue Dye

Traditional Costumes for Women as well as Men

The Importance of the Moh Hom Textile
Moh Hom cloths are an aspect of the Phrae identity. The Phrae people similar to have on Moh Hom clothing. In the past, they were worn every bit working clothes since they were dark coloured. Men wore small sleeved collarless MohHom shirt amongst buttons or strings, which was similar to a sort of Chinese shirts, together amongst long trousers as well as PhaKhao Ma (long multi-purposed cloth) tied to their waists.

Women wore long sleeved collarless buttoned-up blouse as well as tube skirt known every bit “Sin Lae” which had about blood-red stripes at the human foot of the dark skirt.

Sin Lae

The Uses of Moh Hom Textile
Moh Hom vesture is a Northern styled dressing identity. During New Year, most people have on Moh Hom clothes. At present, Moh Hom clothes are made into varied designs as well as styles. Apart from the classic circular necked shirt, at that topographic point are the MohHom Chinese collared, scarves, tube skirts, as well as Batik clothes similar to the textiles from the South. In ancient times, MohHom cloths were used every bit wraps for traditional herbal compresses. People inwards the North similar using MohHom products from Phrae as well as when talking almost authentic MohHom, solely PhraeMohHom products are counted on. The lineament of the Moh Hom products from Phrae is good accepted since they are commonly of goodness quality, durable inwards damage of stuff as well as dye, as well as slowly to have on inwards different occasions.

Phrae people have on MohHom clothes during New Year's Day at the Phrae Provincial Industry Office.

Traditional MohHom shirts tin hold out institute anywhere.

MohHom clothes tin hold out divided based on their production methods every bit follows:

1. Traditional paw woven products: This production grouping employs the traditional method using Kram as well as Hom to dye cotton fiber strands which so are woven at local looms earlier beingness hand-sewn or made into different products such every bit shirt, blouse, scarf, placemat, as well as handbag, yesteryear paw or sewing machine.

Hand woven MohHom fabrics as well as products

2. ChokMohHom: Also known every bit MohHom tube skirt made amongst the Chok weaving technique, the making of this stuff employs the traditional weaving as well as dyeing methods which utilisation natural ingredients including Hom as well as Kram plants. This stuff is made into tube skirts to hold out worn during of import ceremonies as well as festivals.

MohHom tube skirt amongst Chok technique

3. Applied MohHom products: This type of products uses natural dyes from Hom, Kram, as well as HomKhrua plants. It may combine screening technique as well as tin hold out made into diverse products such every bit bed sheet, pillow, bed cover, curtain, lamp, wall hanging, carpet, placemat, etc.

Using indigo-dyed fabrics to brand different products – from Kaewwanna

The Source of Production of the Moh Hom Textile
There are 4 principal MohHom production places inwards Phrae including the Ban PhraLuang village, the Ban Wiang Thong village, the Ban Thung Hong village, as well as Ms. PranomTapaeng’s house. The commencement iii places employ the “Jok” technique (Jok refers to the way the fabrics are submerged into the dye inwards the jar) which gives dark bluish colour, but since the dyes used inwards these places are chemic indigo, the MohHom cloths from at that topographic point are non colourfast since at that topographic point are every bit good much color residues left on the fabric. MohHom products from Ms. LuangThongsuk’s solid from Thung Hong utilisation the Batik technique to create patterns on the products yesteryear drawing designs on the fabrics amongst white candle wax earlier dyeing. MohHom products from Ms. PranomThapaeng’s solid are natural starting from the growing of Hom, the training of dyes, the dyeing process, as well as the Chok as well as Madmee weaving techniques. MohHom products from Ms. Pranom’s are colourfast.

Apart from these, Kaewwanna natural indigo gallery also produces all-natural products which come upwardly from natural production methods.

The Inheritance of the MohHom Textile Wisdom

MohHom clothes inwards Phrae were originated from the Lao Puan or Tai Puan people who were captured yesteryear the Siamese regular army from present-day Lao PDR as well as settled inwards the North of Phrae or the Wat Sawankhaniwet temple area. These people after moved to the Tai Puan’sThung Hong village. They were skillful inwards making indigo dyes from plants as well as passed on the fine art of making indigo cloths which tin hold out summed upwardly every bit follows:

Preparing cotton fiber yarns:

Grow cotton fiber trees after finishing harvesting other crops
Collect goodness lineament cotton fiber fruits
Take out cotton fiber seeds using a roller gin called “Eew Fai”
Fluff the cotton fiber – known every bit “Ying Fai”
Roll fluffed cotton fiber into little rolls which are 7-8 inches long – known every bit “Loh Fai”
Twist cotton fiber strands into yarns
Wound yarns into different little sized skeins as well as soak them inwards rice-soaking water.

After this, the yarns tin hold out used for weaving which volition create cotton fiber white fabrics. Next footstep is to ready the dyes.

Eew FaiLoh Fai Pia Fai

Making Indigo Dyes from Hom as well as Kram
After growing the plants for iii months, leaves as well as little twigs tin hold out reaped at the tips.

Tie upwardly the twigs as well as leaves into a bunch.
Soak the bunch inwards H2O for 1 24-hour interval until it starts to disintegrate. Turn upwardly the bunch as well as instruct out for 1 to a greater extent than day. While soaking, 1 needs to “jok” the H2O yesteryear scooping H2O inwards a scoop as well as pouring it dorsum to the fermenting outrage until the H2O becomes bubbly inwards gild to create to a greater extent than oxygen for improve fermentation. The “jok” should hold out done every morning time as well as evening.
Squeeze as well as discard the bunch.
The H2O inwards the fermenting outrage volition plough dark-green amongst a rigid smell.
Put lime into H2O – the procedure is known every bit “SuakMohHom”- until bubbles seem on the surface. This is to alter the status of the H2O into base. The aroma volition plough from pungent \to fragrant. After this the H2O volition plough dark blue.

Leave for sedentation as well as filtrate the liquid amongst white filter cloth. The filtered mud tin hold out used every bit the colourant for making dyes all twelvemonth round.

Dyeing Technique

Mix the colourant mud amongst base of operations H2O (gained from soaking ashes inwards water) as well as lime inwards a jar. Practice the “jok” every morning time as well as evening.
Clean the stuff which volition hold out dyed yesteryear boiling the stuff or yesteryear soaking it inwards H2O for 2 days inwards gild to withdraw dirt as well as flour.
Submerge the stuff into the dyeing jar. Squeeze the stuff good for 10-15 minutes.
Air-dry the fabric.
Repeat the procedure for 3-4 times inwards gild to accomplish the desired colour.
Wash the stuff earlier use.

Jok Dyeing Air dry out

Main Materials as well as Tools for Making MohHom Textile

Raw Materials

Hom, HomKhrua, as well as Kram plants. Hom as well as Kram are of 2 different families. Hom (BaphicacanthuscusiaBrem.) is a shrub or subshrub upwardly to 0.5 -1 m. tall amongst elliptic – ovate leaves as well as commonly purplish flowers inwards panicles. This flora belongs to the Acanthaceae family. It commonly grows inwards cold, damp house peculiarly on the banks of a stream. At present, at that topographic point are non many of the Hom plants because of the decrease of wood as well as the growing demand for indigo clothes. Kram or Indigoferatinctoria Linn. likes sunlight as well as grows good inwards warm climate as well as acidic soil. It withstands heavy pelting as well as is considered a sort of weeds. It is a shrub 0.50 to 1.50 meters high as well as lives for 1-3 years. It may hold out an annual, biennial, or perennial, depending on the climate inwards which it is grown. It has lite dark-green pinnate leaves as well as sheafs of pinkish or purplish flowers. The flora is a legume, as well as seeds tin hold out used for planting.
Unbleached or cotton fiber cloths – woven fabrics from cotton, traditionally agency hand-woven cotton fiber fabrics.
Dyes from Hom, Kram, as well as HomKhrua plants

Dyeing Process

Making Colourant Mud

Hom, Kram, as well as HomKhrua (Boek) plants
Lime

Making dyes

Rice-soaking H2O
Tamarind-soaking H2O
Ashes from banana tree
Roots of banana tree
Tamarind torso

Main Tools

Jars for fermenting as well as dyeing
White filter cloth

Production Process

Making colourant mud

Collect xl kilograms of fresh Hom leaves inwards the morning time no after than 8.00 am or inwards the eve after 4.00 pm since the leaves volition hold out fresh as well as yield to a greater extent than color than the ones collected at anytime else. Tie the leaves as well as twigs upwardly inwards a bunch as well as house it inwards the fermenting jar.
Pour build clean H2O on top of the bunch as well as instruct out to ferment for 48 hours.
Take out the leaves as well as twigs which are non nonetheless fermented.
Pour inwards 2 kilograms of lime as well as stir the H2O till bubbly. Leave for 2 nights.
The colourant should hold out sedented. Pour out clear H2O leaving solely the colourant mud.
Scoop the colourant mud into a white filter cloth as well as crush out the water. The mud is ready to hold out made into dyes.

Making dyes

Put 5 scoops of colourant mud into the dyeing jar.
Mix good 5 scoops of base of operations H2O as well as 2 scoops of tamarind-soaking H2O amongst the mud. Leave for 2 nights.
Wash the cotton fiber stuff to hold out dyed inwards build clean H2O to withdraw dirt.
Submerge the stuff into the dyeing outrage as well as crush well.
Squeeze dry out the stuff as well as air dry out inwards shade.
Repeat the process. In natural indigo dyeing process, the dyeing tin hold out done twice a 24-hour interval inwards the morning time as well as inwards the evening. The dyeing tin hold out repeated every 6-8 hours for 10-15 times until the desired color is gained.

Weaving Process

Materials as well as Tools

Hand loom
Yarns

The weaving of MohHom cloths inwards Phrae is done through weaving basic thatched motifs. The woven cloths tin after hold out made into different products.

Weaving amongst paw loom

Distinguishing Features of the Moh Hom Textile
Moh Hom fine art is a way of life of the Phrae people which should hold out preserved. The making of Moh Hom cloths require a complicated dyeing procedure which takes to a greater extent than fourth dimension than other kinds of natural dyeing methods. The dyes are made from locally available plants including the leaves of the Hom, Kram, as well as Hom Khrua plants, so it is non needed to collect the bark or the whole flora for making dyes. The dyed color stays attached to the cloths until the cloths are worn out. The MohHom dyes are lightfast, dissimilar colours from other natural dyes. The training of dyes as well as the dyeing procedure are also to a greater extent than special than those of other natural dyes. The procedure begins from the reaping of Hom leaves, which should hold out 3-4 months old, inwards the early on morning time earlier the dew dries out. Authentic MohHom cloths which receive got deep color are commonly dyed repeatedly to a greater extent than than twenty times. The indigo hues demand to hold out vivid as well as clean, non dull, as well as the color should hold out durable.

The vivid indigo color is 1 of the oldest colours inwards history as well as is dated dorsum to 6,000 years ago. It is considered the manlike someone monarch of dyes as well as has been known inwards ancient civilizations inwards Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece, Rome, Africa, as well as Asia. MohHom cloths receive got a distinct fragrant scent which tin drive away ants as well as insects from wearers. They also protect wearers from excessive ultraviolet rays.

Phrae Moh Hom

The The Distinction of Patterning inwards MohHom Textiles

A slice of MohHom cloths is woven yesteryear using warp as well as weft yarns to create a basic thatched pattern, as well as so the slice volition hold out dyed amongst an indigo dye from Hom or Kram plants. The pattern is a basic thatched pattern. Usually a woven thatched pattern is comprised of 2 warp yarns as well as 2 weft yarns or more, as well as the thatching is clearly visible when comparison to other patterns amongst the same break of yarns.