Yaa Acquaint Scenario Of The Phulkari Embroidery
Tuesday 18 December 2018
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Present Scenario of the Phulkari of Punjab (A type of Indian Traditional Embroidery)
R.S. Balakumar
M.A.(SOCIOLOGY ), M.L.M.(Labour Management), Pursuing MBA (EXECUTIVE) inwards (FASHION-TECH), MISTE.,
Chennai, Republic of Republic of India
Cell: +91-9283182955
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
Introduction:
Phulkari, needlework of Punjab, is the most exclusive together with matchless inwards its beauty together with the embroidery technique peculiarly used inwards the dry reason of punjab. It agency bloom craft, every bit is derived from the give-and-take phul together with kari. Phulkaris refer to unproblematic together with sparsely embroidered shawls or dupattas together with the all over, densely embroidered ones known every bit baghs.
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| Phulkari Embroidery |
The exact rootage of phulkari is non known. One theory is based on the fact that every bit it was to a greater extent than oft than non worn yesteryear jat women, it came from Central Asia along amongst jat tribes who came to Republic of Republic of India every bit migrants. Another theory believes that it came to Republic of Republic of India from Iran, where it is known every bit gulkari.
However, both these theories hit non agree practiced every bit phulkari is practiced together with worn yesteryear all the people of Punjab from early on 19th century. It is considered every bit a symbol of suhag together with thus forms a real of import business office of a bride’s trousseau.
Manufacture Process of Phulkari:
Now, let’s explore the manufacturing procedure of phulkari.
Material
Phulkari utilized khaddar every bit the base of operations fabric. This base of operations cloth was available inwards iii varieties, such every bit khaddar, which was loosely spun together with coarsely woven; chaunsa khaddar, a comparatively ameliorate variety; together with halwan, a calorie-free weight together with finely woven khaddar fabric. The average size of the phulkari together with bagh is almost 230 x 138 cm.
Threads
Soft together with untwisted floss silk yarn, known every bit pat, is used. Earlier, strands were imported from PRC together with were dyed yesteryear a dyer, that is, lalari using vegetable dyes. Sometimes, cotton fiber together with woollen threads were used.
Colors
Various shades of reddish color are to a greater extent than oft than non used for the base of operations cloth because of the feel of auspiciousness attached amongst this color. Other pop colors are bluish together with its diverse shades. White is used for elderly ladies. Embroidery is done amongst the role of colors, such every bit golden yellow, crimson, orange, blue, violet, green, nighttime brown, together with white. The beauty of phulkari is enhanced yesteryear using shiny silk thread that produces an illusion of to a greater extent than than i shade of the color.
Stitches
The primary sew together used inwards phulkari is the darning sew together together with the geometrical designs embroidered amongst this sew together cast the reason of phulkari. At times, other than geometrical designs are every bit good embroidered together with instruct stylized because the darnihg sew together is worked inwards instantly lines. Other stitches, such every bit chain, stem, blanket, running, herringbone, together with buttonhole, are used occasionally.
Motifs
The designs are neither drawn nor traced. They are the products of the imagination together with inventiveness of embroiders together with instruct stylized because the darning sew together is worked inwards instantly lines. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 large set out of motif designs are inspired yesteryear the lives together with environs of people, which are every bit follows:
- Vegetables, such every bit Karelabagh together with Gobhibagh
- Gardens, such every bit Shalimar bagh together with Char bagh
- Flowers, such every bit Gendabagh together with Surajmukhibagh
- Birds together with animals, such every bit Tota, Mor, Hathi, Gai, together with Bakri
- Jewellery items, such every bit Guluband, Ranihaar, Kangan, Karan phool, Jhumkas, together with Tikka
Process
Long together with curt darning stitches are created inwards instantly lines yesteryear counting the threads to follow the pattern, using a ling needle of almost 3 inches amongst a ling eye. Embroidery is ever done from the dorsum side of the cloth placing all the floats at the front end side together with small-scale dots at the dorsum side of the fabric.
Types of Phulkaris:
The phulkaris bring been given unlike names according to the designs embroidered, colors of the base of operations fabric, threads used, together with its usage. The diverse types of phulkaris are:
- Chope: Chope is a hymeneals phulkari, which is presented to the bride yesteryear her maternal grandmother together with is worn during the Chura ceremony of the marriage. It is largest inwards size together with is embroidered alone on reddish colored cloth. The thread is of golden yellowish color amongst i or ii motifs inwards light-green toward off the evil eye. Chope has large triangles amongst their base of operations towards the selvedges together with small-scale triangles inwards betwixt the large ones inwards the reverse direction. Each triangle is filled amongst unlike geometrical patterns. The ii ends are non embroidered, symbolizing limitless prosperity for the bride later on marriage.
- Suber: This phulkari is worn during the pheras of the matrimony ceremony. This is inwards reddish color together with is embroidered amongst 5 floral motifs inwards each corner together with 5 inwards the center.
- Saloo: This is a shawl inwards apparently reddish khaddar, meant for daily use. It has floral butis embroidered at a distance inwards the plain of the shawl.
- Tilpatra: This is a inexpensive shawl embroidered amongst small-scale dots all over the field. These were presented to servants on auspicious occasions.
- Panchranga / Satranga: This phulkari is embroidered using geometrical designs inwards 5 to vii colors.
- Reshmusheesha: This phulkari uses navy bluish every bit the base of operations color amongst geometrical motifs embroidered inwards white floss giving an impression of silken mirror, that is, reshmusheesha.
- Sheeshedarphulkari: This phulkari is adorned amongst small-scale mirrors attached using buttonhole stitch. The base of operations color is reddish or chocolate-brown embroidered amongst yellowish or bluish thread.
- Nilakphulkari: This pulkari is made on bluish base of operations cloth every bit per its name. Small flowers are embroidered amongst yellowish together with reddish silken thread.
- Sainchiphulkari: This phulkari has a lotus inwards the centre amongst birds together with animals n the plain depicting the universe.
The diverse types of baghs are:
- Vari-da-bagh: This detail bagh is embroidered yesteryear the grandmother together with presented to the bride of the grandson at the fourth dimension of the marriage. It is done on reddish base of operations amongst golden yellowish thread every bit it symbolized happiness together with fertility. The plain is covered amongst small-scale lozenges amongst each i having simply about other lozenge.
- Ghunghatbagh / Sarpallu: This bagh has alone the sides together with the component subdivision roofing the caput embroidered amongst large triangular motifs inwards i color.
- Bawanbagh: This is a unique sort of bagh having the plain divided inwards 52 squares. Each foursquare has unlike geometrical nituf,
- Darshandawar: These are made to gift at religious places. It has an architectural blueprint done on reddish base. The blueprint consists of tall gates amongst pointed roof together with the centre of the gates had motifs of humans, animals, birds, together with flowers.
Earlier alone shawls or dupattas were embroidered amongst phulkari, but at nowadays a days, the embroidery is done on ladies suits together with kurtis also.
Present Day Status
As this fine art is hard together with fourth dimension consuming, it is non inwards practise these days inwards master copy cast except real few phulkari together with bagh pieces, which tin sack travel seen together with bought from dry reason emporiums together with places, such every bit SurajkundMela together with DilliHaat. Phulkari motifs are embroidered on all types of fabrics, such every bit terry voile, chiffons etc. Machine embroidered imitations of the motifs are every bit good made.
Conclusion:
This type of embroidery function requires to a greater extent than patience together with artisan science enhancements needed. Present students are undergoing the fashion blueprint plain of report inwards their marking plane program,should travel studied surface ornamentation is i of their plain of report together with phulkari embroidery is every bit good to travel studied. Most of the phulkari embroidery designs are real much attracted yesteryear the international buyers together with then the inventiveness of novel designs are beingness made yesteryear the fashion design students of the introduce generation to earn sufficient monetary benefit.
Books for reference:
- Traditional Embroidery of India- Book.
- Fashion Design -Book.