Yaa Garments Washing Techniques Used Inwards Bangladesh (Part-2)
Tuesday 18 December 2018
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Garments Washing Techniques Used inward People's Republic of Bangladesh (Part-2)
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Former Assistant Chemist
Ha-Meem Washing
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Former Assistant Chemist
Ha-Meem Washing
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com
GARMENT WASH
Indigo jeans were in ane lawsuit the entirely item processed past times the garment wash method, but this is no longer the case. H5N1 broad diverseness of unlike types of woven together with knit fabrics dyed past times unlike systems are straight off used inward clothes that is garment washed earlier retail distribution. Emphasis is on comfort together with softness. Also, some fashion trends such every bit the broken-in await together with worn/faded seams that tin sack entirely live achieved through garment processing.
PROCEDURE
Garments tin sack live inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks (especially useful when preset creases are present).
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Load machine amongst garments.
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Desize amongst alpha amylase enzyme together with detergent.
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Rinse.
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Fill machine amongst H2O together with oestrus to 60◦C. The liquor ratio tin sack attain from 10:1 to 20:1. H5N1 discover of synthetic detergents tin sack live used. Also, element of group I products such every bit soda ash or caustic soda tin sack live added inward amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter, subject upon the detail dyestuff used.
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Wash/tumble activity for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.
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Drain together with rinse.
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Apply softener.
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Tumble dry.
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Press, if required.
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Load machine amongst garments.
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Desize amongst alpha amylase enzyme together with detergent.
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Rinse.
↓
Fill machine amongst H2O together with oestrus to 60◦C. The liquor ratio tin sack attain from 10:1 to 20:1. H5N1 discover of synthetic detergents tin sack live used. Also, element of group I products such every bit soda ash or caustic soda tin sack live added inward amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter, subject upon the detail dyestuff used.
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Wash/tumble activity for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.
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Drain together with rinse.
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Apply softener.
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Tumble dry.
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Press, if required.
STONE WASH
In club to accelerate the garment launder consequence together with to give garments an fifty-fifty to a greater extent than unique appearance together with softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to the launder bath. H5N1 diverseness of natural together with synthetic stones are available for stone washing. As the stones are used, they piece of cake disintegrate, reducing the stonewash consequence over a menstruation of time. The stones non entirely abrade the textile but every bit good gradually abrade the within of the rotary drum. H5N1 machine used for stone washing should non live used to dye frail articles .
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| Stone wash |
- Pumice rock.
- Volcanic rock.
- Manmade substrates.
- Hardness.
- Size.
- Shape.
- Porosity.
- Dusting ability.
- Large, difficult stones which concluding longer for heavy fabrics
- Smaller, softer stones for lightweight together with to a greater extent than frail fabrics
- Ratio of stone weight to textile weight = 2:1 upward to 3:l
Load stones into machine.
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Load garments into machine (ratio normally 0.5 - 3.0 component weight stones:1 component weight garments).
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Desize amongst alpha amylase enzyme together with detergent.
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Liquor ratio simply about (5-8):1.
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Rinse.
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Refill together with fall amongst stones xxx to xc minutes, depending upon desired consequence at 50-70◦C. Scouring additives tin sack every bit good live used.
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Drain. Separate garments from stones.
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Rinse.
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Apply softener (garments tin sack live transferred to some other machine for softening).
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Extract together with unload.
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Tumble dry.
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Press, if required.
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Load garments into machine (ratio normally 0.5 - 3.0 component weight stones:1 component weight garments).
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Desize amongst alpha amylase enzyme together with detergent.
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Liquor ratio simply about (5-8):1.
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Rinse.
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Refill together with fall amongst stones xxx to xc minutes, depending upon desired consequence at 50-70◦C. Scouring additives tin sack every bit good live used.
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Drain. Separate garments from stones.
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Rinse.
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Apply softener (garments tin sack live transferred to some other machine for softening).
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Extract together with unload.
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Tumble dry.
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Press, if required.
Softeners and/or lubricants tin sack live added during steps iii together with 5 to cut back creasing potential. Steps 8, 9, together with 10 may vary depending upon garments quality.
NOTES: Back staining or color deposition tin sack live reduced past times
- adding dispersant intermission agent to launder bike
- intermediate replacement of launder liquor
- use of element of group I detergent (sodium per-borate amongst optical brightener every bit an subsequently wash)
To overcome the shortcoming of pumice stones, synthetic stones receive got been developed. These are made of abrasive stuff such every bit silicate, plastic, condom or Portland cement.
The advantages of using such type of production are:-
- All major problems associated amongst the utilization of volcanic bird pumice stone tin sack live overcome.
- Durability of such production is much higher together with tin sack live used repeatedly from 50-300 bike depending upon type of synthetic stone.
- Reproducibility of washing is manageable.
- As stone discharge of the physical care for is rattling less, thus making physical care for is economical together with ecological.
- Less harm of machine together with garments
By incorporating chlorine inward the stonewash procedure, a color reduction of the indigo (or other chlorine sensitive dyestuff) is obtained. It is rattling of import that whatsoever residuum chlorine live removed earlier drying to preclude fiber degradation. This is accomplished past times using an antichlor pace amongst sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide.
PROCEDURE
Load stones into machine.
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Load garments into machine (ratio normally 0.5 - 3.0 component stones:1 component garments).
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Desize amongst alpha amylase enzyme together with detergent (liquor ratio simply about 10:1).
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Rinse.
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*5. Refill together with add together sodium or calcium hypochlorite. (Heat to 55◦C.)
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Tumble xv minutes.
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Add 2nd percentage of sodium or calcium hypochlorite.
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Tumble xv minutes, maintaining temperature of 55◦C.
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Drain.
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Rinse well.
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Antichlor amongst sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide.
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Drain. Separate garments from stones.
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Rinse well.
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Apply softener. (Garments tin sack live transferred to some other machine).
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Extract together with unload.
↓
Tumble dry.
↓
Press, if required.
↓
Load garments into machine (ratio normally 0.5 - 3.0 component stones:1 component garments).
↓
Desize amongst alpha amylase enzyme together with detergent (liquor ratio simply about 10:1).
↓
Rinse.
↓
*5. Refill together with add together sodium or calcium hypochlorite. (Heat to 55◦C.)
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Tumble xv minutes.
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Add 2nd percentage of sodium or calcium hypochlorite.
↓
Tumble xv minutes, maintaining temperature of 55◦C.
↓
Drain.
↓
Rinse well.
↓
Antichlor amongst sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide.
↓
Drain. Separate garments from stones.
↓
Rinse well.
↓
Apply softener. (Garments tin sack live transferred to some other machine).
↓
Extract together with unload.
↓
Tumble dry.
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Press, if required.
[*Amount of sodium or calcium hypochlorite required volition vary depending upon desired bird of bleach downward together with the sensitivity of the color to chlorine. Each add-on tin sack attain from 0.075% to 0.225% available chlorine. pH should live kept higher upward 9.0, preferably 10.5-11.0. This is accomplished amongst the add-on of soda ash amongst each add-on of hypochlorite.]
CELLULASE ENZYME
Cellulase enzymes receive got gained credence inward the garment launder manufacture every bit a agency to accomplish a launder downward appearance without the utilization of stones or amongst reduced quantities of stones Stones are non entirely abrasive to garments but every bit good to the equipments. Stones tin sack exercise sludge inward waste matter handling systems. Cellulase enzyme is a detail strain of enzyme derived from microorganisms. Selective to cotton fiber shape of cellulose together with non to starch. Once the reaction takes place, They assault (1–4) beta glucoside linkages resulting inward reduced molecular weight together with thus removal of surface fiber (the mechanical activity betwixt garments together with equipment every bit good every bit betwixt garments textile weaker fibers resulting a cleaner, smoother surface. Stones may live added to heighten the abrasion).
MAIN FACTORS THAT SHOULD CONTROL IN ENZYME WASHING:
- PH
- Temperature
- Time
- Concentration
- Mechanical activity
Load garments (addition of stones optional)
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Desize for starch (alpha-amalase enzyme or oxidative desize)
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Rinse
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Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5.0 amongst acetic acid or a buffer arrangement
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Heat to 50 to lx C ( 122 - 140 F)
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Add cellulase enzyme
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Tumble for xxx - lx minutes
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Deactivation step- rinse hot > 65 C ( 150 F)
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Rinse mutual frigidity
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Soften and/or optically brighten
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Tumble dry out
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Deactivation of the cellulase enzyme to preclude farther weight reduction tin sack live done past times temperatures inward excess of lx C (140 F) and/or at a pH higher than 5.0.
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Cellulase enzymes may live used every bit an subsequently handling to build clean upward surfaces of Garments which receive got pop off fuzzy during garment dyeing.
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The shade of the dyed garments may alter which requires preliminary lab piece of work to decide if this volition live a work or not.
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Desize for starch (alpha-amalase enzyme or oxidative desize)
↓
Rinse
↓
Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5.0 amongst acetic acid or a buffer arrangement
↓
Heat to 50 to lx C ( 122 - 140 F)
↓
Add cellulase enzyme
↓
Tumble for xxx - lx minutes
↓
Deactivation step- rinse hot > 65 C ( 150 F)
↓
Rinse mutual frigidity
↓
Soften and/or optically brighten
↓
Tumble dry out
↓
Deactivation of the cellulase enzyme to preclude farther weight reduction tin sack live done past times temperatures inward excess of lx C (140 F) and/or at a pH higher than 5.0.
↓
Cellulase enzymes may live used every bit an subsequently handling to build clean upward surfaces of Garments which receive got pop off fuzzy during garment dyeing.
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The shade of the dyed garments may alter which requires preliminary lab piece of work to decide if this volition live a work or not.
ACID WASH
- Also known every bit ICE WASH, SNOW WASH, WHITE WASH, ETC.
- Complete discharge or removal of color possible
- Uses pumice rocks, bleaching agents together with dyestuffs that are sensitive to the bleaching agents.
- Porous rocks that receive got a medium to high dusting capability are soaked inward solutions of bleaching agents which are used every bit a vehicle to deposit a chemic on garments to strip the color together with produces a frosted appearance. Indigo together with selected sulfur dyes are currently the around pop candidates for this procedure.
Soak stones inward solutions of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours. Concentrations ranging from 1.5% to 5% are beingness used commercially. (5% to 10% sodium hypochlorite tin sack live substituted.)
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Stones should live drained of excess liquor. This tin sack live accomplished past times placing stones inward internet or mesh textile prior to soaking. Then the stones tin sack live removed together with the excess drained off. Trials should live conducted to decide the best method for achieving desired effects.
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Place stones together with garments inward machine (garments should live scoured and/or desized together with dry out or slightly damp).
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Tumble for 10-30 minutes or until desired effects are achieved. Results are subject upon dyestuff, fabric, concentration of chemicals, stones, additives, together with equipment.
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*If potassium permanganate is used, manganese dioxide volition shape (a brown/orange color) together with must live removed past times handling amongst sodium bisulfate, hydroxylamine sulfate, or acidified hydrogen peroxide every bit the reducing agent. Fill the machine amongst H2O together with add together 1-5 g/l of the reducing agent. Heat to 50◦C together with run for twenty minutes. When sodium hypochlorite is used, the residuum chlorine should live removed amongst sodium bisulfate or hydrogen peroxide. Adding jeans to machine already charged amongst afterwash chemicals volition increment contrast.
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Rinse well.
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Apply softener.
↓
Tumble dry.
↓
Ironing (if required)
↓
Stones should live drained of excess liquor. This tin sack live accomplished past times placing stones inward internet or mesh textile prior to soaking. Then the stones tin sack live removed together with the excess drained off. Trials should live conducted to decide the best method for achieving desired effects.
↓
Place stones together with garments inward machine (garments should live scoured and/or desized together with dry out or slightly damp).
↓
Tumble for 10-30 minutes or until desired effects are achieved. Results are subject upon dyestuff, fabric, concentration of chemicals, stones, additives, together with equipment.
↓
*If potassium permanganate is used, manganese dioxide volition shape (a brown/orange color) together with must live removed past times handling amongst sodium bisulfate, hydroxylamine sulfate, or acidified hydrogen peroxide every bit the reducing agent. Fill the machine amongst H2O together with add together 1-5 g/l of the reducing agent. Heat to 50◦C together with run for twenty minutes. When sodium hypochlorite is used, the residuum chlorine should live removed amongst sodium bisulfate or hydrogen peroxide. Adding jeans to machine already charged amongst afterwash chemicals volition increment contrast.
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Rinse well.
↓
Apply softener.
↓
Tumble dry.
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Ironing (if required)
[* The alternative of sodium hypochlorite versus potassium permanganate depends upon the dyestuff together with desired effect]
QUICK WASH
Quick launder textile is dyed amongst modified technique of dyeing, then that during launder cycle, indigo dye tin sack live removed quickly, giving washed await at shorter washing cycle. This results inward to a greater extent than economical washes i.e. depression H2O consumption, less usage of chemicals, less fourth dimension together with retaining textile strength.
DRY PROCESSES
SAND BLASTING
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive stuff inward granular, powdered or other shape through a nozzle at rattling high speed together with pull per unit of measurement area onto specific areas of the garment surface to live treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look.
ADVANTAGES OF SAND BLASTING PROCESS:-
- It is purely mechanical process, non using whatsoever chemicals.
- It is a H2O costless physical care for thus no drying required.
- Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
- Any discover of designs could live created past times special techniques.
To give worn out effect, abraded await or used look, some mechanical processes receive got been developed. These are based on mechanical abrasion past times which the indigo tin sack live removed. Some of these processes are sueding, raising, emeresing, peaching together with brushing.
ADVANTAGES OF THESE PROCESSES:-
- Control on the abrasion
- Different await on the garment tin sack live achieved.
- All are dry out process.
- Economical, ecological together with environmental friendly.
By using this technique, the garment tin sack live bleached. Bleaching of denim garment is done inward washing machine amongst ozone dissolved inward water. Denim garments tin sack every bit good live bleached or faded past times using ozone gas inward shut chamber. The advantages associated amongst this physical care for are:
- Colour removal is possible without losing strength.
- This method is rattling uncomplicated together with environmentally friendly because subsequently laundering, ozonized H2O tin sack easily live deozonized past times UV radiation.
This technique is based on spraying the chemicals or pigments to larn unlike consequence on the garments. This tin sack live done past times using robotic spraying gun or past times manual spray together with followed past times curing of the garment.
- It a H2O costless physical care for thus goose egg effluent discharge.
- Less fourth dimension consuming
- Different designs are possible
- Easy to use
- No adverse consequence on textile strength.
Rinse launder
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Pigment added every bit required
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Steam seventy c
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Time (10+15+20)
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Normal Wash
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Binder-2g/lit (70c-5min)
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Normal Wash
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Enzyme
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Acid pH-5
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Normal Wash
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Softener
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Hydro
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Dryer
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Finishing
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Pigment added every bit required
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Steam seventy c
↓
Time (10+15+20)
↓
Normal Wash
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Binder-2g/lit (70c-5min)
↓
Normal Wash
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Enzyme
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Acid pH-5
↓
Normal Wash
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Softener
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Hydro
↓
Dryer
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Finishing
TINTED DENIM
With increment inward need of tinted/ over dyed await on garment, garment processor is using an additional physical care for of tinting/over dyeing, which is fourth dimension consuming. It consumes large quantity of H2O together with chemicals. It is every bit good associated amongst the adventure of patches together with unevenness on garments. Now the denim textile is every bit good available inward tinted shape which saves processors fourth dimension together with risk.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
To assess the influence of unlike washing techniques on denim properties, changes inward structural together with for sure physical mechanical properties were determined. Different washing methods brand unlike influence on the denim thickness .Enzymes removed impurities together with private release fiber ends together with smoothing the surface, which caused the thinning. Softener precipitates on the yarns, thus textile thickness increase.
CONCLUSION
The investigation shows that the greatest influence on the alter of garments properties was made past times silicone softening. After this washing, the textile shrinks around of all (till 5 %), which caused the considerable changes of structural properties From all the treatment, the enzyme washing made the greatest influence on the alter of thickness, denim became the thinnest.
Washing amongst a chlorine solution generally influenced the alter of denim structural properties. This method of washing should live avoided due to its harmful consequence on human health. Therefore, like results obtained amongst uncomplicated softening or enzyme washing powerfulness live recommended.
Both visual together with functional purpose of a garment may live assessed whereas alternative of `a detail method of industrial washing influenced unlike textile properties.
REFERENCES:
- BECK,DR.KEITH, ”Garment Dyeing & Finishing.” Fabric Evaluation. Available from
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim
- http://flvdirect.iamwired.net/websearch.php?search=garments+washing+techniques.
- http://www.thawornwat.com/
- http://www.p2pays.org/ref/12/11960.pdf.
- http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-enzyme-washing.htm.
- http://www.ktu.lt/lt/mokslas/zurnalai/medz/medz0-87/17%20Textile...(pp.355-359).pdf