Yaa Comprehensive Written Report On Twill Weave
Tuesday 18 December 2018
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Comprehensive Study on Twill Weave
Md. Enamul Haque
Department of Textile Engineering,
Khulna University of Engineering together with Technology (KUET)
Khulna-9203, Bangladesh.
Email: enamul159@yahoo.com
Md. Enamul Haque
Department of Textile Engineering,
Khulna University of Engineering together with Technology (KUET)
Khulna-9203, Bangladesh.
Email: enamul159@yahoo.com
Twill Weave
The gild of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp together with weft floats to hold out formed inwards the stuff is called twill weave. In the basic weaves of these diagonal lines are continuous but inwards or so of their derivatives they may hold out broken or reversed periodically. The simplest possible repeat for a twill weave is 3 ends * 3 picks together with at that spot is no theoretical upper boundary to the size of the repeat.
Features of twill weave
The original characteristic of twill weave are advert bellow -
Twill weaves tin hold out classified from 4 points of persuasion -
Features of twill weave
The original characteristic of twill weave are advert bellow -
- A twill weave is characterized past times diagonal lines of warp together with weft floats on the expression upwards of the fabric.
- Twill occupation may hold out from lower elevator to upper correct (Z-twill) or from lower correct to upper lift(S-twill) corner.
- Smaller repeat twill is (3). It agency receive got at to the lowest degree terminate together with 3 picks gain twill weave.
- Three or to a greater extent than heald shaft are required for shedding.
- Generally conduct draft is used for twill weave every bit good this pointed or v draft is also used.
- Appearance it volition pattern tin hold out seen from both sides the fabric.
- Diagonal lines run at angle vary betwixt (15-75) score but inwards a continuous or regular twill is 45 degree.
- Twill lines are formed on both sides of cloths.
Twill weaves tin hold out classified from 4 points of persuasion -
a) According to the way of construction
- Warp-way twill weave: 3/1 warp-way twill, etc.
- Weft-way twill weave: 2/3 weft-way twill, etc.
a) According to the way of structure 
- Warp way twill weave : In warp way twill weave warp float run inwards the warp direction.
- Weft way twill weave : In weft way twill weave weft float run inwards the weft direction.
S-Twill :
When the twill runs from the lower correct to the upper left corner, the twill is known every bit a left-hand twill. It is produced past times downward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting dot is bottom left corner or upward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting dot is bottom correct corner. For instance it is expressed past times the formula publish 3/2S, where S-indicate the management of twill line.
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| S-Twill |
When the diagonal occupation runs from the lower left corner to the upper correct corner, the twill is known every bit a right-hand twill. About85% of all twill-woven fabrics are right-hand twill. The alignment of twill Iine is parallel to the middle share of 'Z', so it is called Z - twill.
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| Z-Twill |
Warp expression upwards twill weave :
Warp-faced twills receive got a predominance of warp yarns on the expression upwards of the fabric, alongside 2/1, 3/1, 3/2, 4/2 together with so on. The superlative digit of the fraction occupation is higher than the bottom one, so it is called warp-face twill.
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| Warp expression upwards twill weave |
Weft-faced twills receive got a predominance of weft yarns on the surface of the stuff alongside 2/3, ¾, ½, 2/4. And so on. The superlative digit of the fraction occupation is smaller than the bottom one, so it is called weft-face twill.
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| Weft expression upwards twill weave |
Even sided twills bring out an equal amount of warp together with weft yarn on each side of a fabric. In this instance the superlative together with bottom both are of the fraction occupation are same, so it is called double expression upwards twill.
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| Double expression upwards twill weave |
Simple twill weave :
There are 2 types of unproblematic twill, such every bit unproblematic warp twill together with unproblematic weft twills. Each warp terminate is raised over or lowered nether solely 1 selection inwards the repeat, alongside pattern of ½, 1/3, ¼, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, together with so on. ½, 1/3, ¼, etc. are the unproblematic weft twill together with 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, etc. are the unproblematic warp twill.
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| Simple twill weave |
Each warp terminate is raised over or lowered nether to a greater extent than than 1 next selection inwards the repeat. Lf the warp together with weft twill lines are of equal width, the stuff is double-faced. It is represented past times the formula publish of 2/3, 3/2, 4/4, 2/4, together with so on.
Multiple twill weave :
In each repeat, at that spot are at to the lowest degree 2 warp twill lines or 2 weft twill lines of dissimilar width. If the prominency of warp yar is to a greater extent than than it is called warp-face multiple twill together with the prominency of weft yarn is to a greater extent than than it is called weft-face multiple twill. If the prominency of both warp together with weft yarns are same than it is called double-face multiple twill. Lt is represented past times the formula publish of , , together with so on.
(e) Balanced together with unbalanced twill
In these types of twills the warp together with weft floats may hold out equal or unequal. In other words the twills may hold out of the reversible or irreversible types. Accordingly they may hold out known every bit balanced together with unbalanced twills. Examples of balanced twills are 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc. Examples of unbalanced twills are 2/3, 4/2, 5/3 etc. The 2/2 twill is popularly known every bit “Gaberdene” weave.
Factor Affecting the Prominence of Twill Weave:
The next element affecting the prominence of twill weave -
1. Feature of weave
The prominence of twill occupation on characteristic of weave inwards the next ways;
It influence twill occupation every bit bellow:
More publish of ends or picks per inch causes to a greater extent than prominent twill line.
4. Direction of twill occupation inwards relation to yarn twist direction:
When management of twill on stuff is opposite to the management of twist inwards yarn the twill occupation becomes to a greater extent than prominent together with vice-versa.
Twill Angle
Twill angle is the angle which is produced past times twill occupation alongside honour to the horizontal line. This twill angle depends on next factors.
Derivatives of Twill Weave
There are many derivatives of twill are given bellow;
Vertical zigzag twill: When the reversal management of twill occupation occur upon the weft yarn, it outcome a vertical zigzag twill, hither the basic twill is extended inwards weft direction. Here the publish of weft yarn inwards a repeat is double of the publish of warp. In Vertical zigzag twill conduct draft is used.
2. Hearing Bone Twill
This twill are constructed inwards a dissimilar way from the ordinary zigzag twill. Though it also depend on reversal of twill direction.
Here reversal management occurs afterward a middle line. Here at start the basic twill is drown together with so the publish of key dot is selected inwards zigzag twill. Rather inwards extended instant one-half of basic twill the next affair happened.
When hearing os twill is created past times extending the basic twill inwards warp direction, horizontal hearing os outcome in. The repeat size of horizontal herringbone is calculated from the regular or base of operations twill weave similar every bit horizontal zigzag weave. In this instance the publish of warp yarn inwards herringbone weave is double of the publish of warp yarn of base of operations twill together with the publish of weft yarn is same every bit base of operations twill weave.
Vertical hearing os twill:
When hearing os twill is created past times extending the basic twill inwards weft direction, vertical hearing os outcome in. The repeat size of vertical herringbone is calculated from the regular or base of operations twill weave similar every bit vertical zig-zag weave. In this instance the publish of weft yarn inwards herringbone weave is double of the publish of weft yarn of base of operations twill together with the publish of warp yarn is same every bit base of operations twill weave.
3. Diamond Design
It is a derivatives of twill weave. It constructed on the solid set down of zigzag twill principle. It is obtain past times combining a horizontal together with vertical zigzag twill. So hither inwards the repeat the publish of both warp together with weft thread are double together with so that inwards basic twill. Diamond is a reversible design. So it may hold out divided into 2 equal parts inwards both vertical together with horizontal axis. Pointed or V-drafting scheme is used to gain diamond design.
Diamond pattern geometrical virtually at that spot vertical together with horizontal axis. In this weave pointed draft is obtained.
To contract a diamond pattern at start the pattern repeat is selected. It the basic twill is 3 upwards 3 down, that is 6×6 inwards size, the repeat of pattern volition hold out 12×12 inwards size.
Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow comprehend etc.
4. Diaper Design
This derivative of twill weave is created on the solid set down herring os principle. This pattern is constructed past times combining horizontal together with vertical hearing os twill.
In the repeat of a diaper pattern the publish of warp together with weft threads are 2 type to a greater extent than than that inwards its basic twill. So if the basic twill size is 8×8. Its diaper pattern repeat size volition 16×16. In instance of diaper design, Broken or conduct draft is used
Use: Same diamond.
5. Broken Twill
6. Elongated Twill
A peculiar shape of twill, known every bit an elongated or steep twill, is obtained when the warp float of each thread rises 2 or to a greater extent than picks instead of 1 selection to a higher identify the float of the preceding thread.
Normally the twill angle is 45 score where the terminate together with selection per unit of measurement expanse are equal .But inwards elongated twill, the twill angle to a greater extent than or less than 45 score whatsoever twill pattern without twill angle.
Elongated twill tin hold out formed inwards 2 dissimilar ways:
If the pace publish of elongated twill is two, together with so past times taking solely strange publish of warp thread from the basic twill hither the warp publish inwards pace twill volition hold out equal to the basic twill. 
(b) By selecting starting of elongated twill alongside a base of operations line:
Here at start a pace publish is to hold out selected. In such a way that the repeat of base of operations occupation overstep devisable past times that pace number.
For example, for a twill alongside formula publish the repeat size volition hold out 14×14.If nosotros pick out movement publish every bit 2 together with so inwards produced elongated twill the publish of warp thread volition hold out vii together with that of weft thread volition hold out vii inwards instance of weft faced twill.
7. Stepped twill
These weaves are generated past times introducing a pace into the pattern afterward a for certain publish of ends or picks. At the step, every thread changes from upwards to downwards or vice versa. This are 2 type stepped twill-
(a)Warp way stepped twill:
There are 2 types of warp-way pace twill. One is created inwards the same twill management together with or so other 1 is created past times reversal of the twill direction. 
Same twill direction: In the same twill management pace may hold out occur afterward the repeat or whatsoever desired publish of thread.
Reversal of the twill direction: Same every bit horizontal herringbone twill weave.
(b) Weft way stepped twill:
There are also 2 types of weft-way pace twill similar every bit warp-way pace twill weave. One is created inwards the same twill management together with or so other 1 is created past times reversal of the twill direction.
Same twill direction: In the same twill management pace may hold out occur afterward the repeat or whatsoever desired publish of thread similar every bit warp-w ay pace twill weave.
Reversal of the twill direction: Same every bit vertical herringbone twill weave.
8. Shaded Twill
By shaded twill nosotros tin do shade outcome on stuff Shade outcome tin hold out gain inwards dissimilar way on the surface of the fabric. The shaded twill are of next type -
Single shaded twill:
Double shaded twill:
9. Combined twill
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| Expanded twill weave |
In each repeat, at that spot are at to the lowest degree 2 warp twill lines or 2 weft twill lines of dissimilar width. If the prominency of warp yar is to a greater extent than than it is called warp-face multiple twill together with the prominency of weft yarn is to a greater extent than than it is called weft-face multiple twill. If the prominency of both warp together with weft yarns are same than it is called double-face multiple twill. Lt is represented past times the formula publish of , , together with so on.
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| Multiple twill weave |
In these types of twills the warp together with weft floats may hold out equal or unequal. In other words the twills may hold out of the reversible or irreversible types. Accordingly they may hold out known every bit balanced together with unbalanced twills. Examples of balanced twills are 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc. Examples of unbalanced twills are 2/3, 4/2, 5/3 etc. The 2/2 twill is popularly known every bit “Gaberdene” weave.
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| Balanced together with unbalanced twill |
The next element affecting the prominence of twill weave -
1. Feature of weave
The prominence of twill occupation on characteristic of weave inwards the next ways;
- The twill of brusk floats less prominent twill line.
- The twill occupation of long float to a greater extent than prominent.
It influence twill occupation every bit bellow:
- Twill off course of written report together with soft twisted yarn→ More prominent twill line.
- Twill of fine together with to a greater extent than twisted yarn→ Less prominent twill line.
More publish of ends or picks per inch causes to a greater extent than prominent twill line.
4. Direction of twill occupation inwards relation to yarn twist direction:
When management of twill on stuff is opposite to the management of twist inwards yarn the twill occupation becomes to a greater extent than prominent together with vice-versa.
Twill Angle
Twill angle is the angle which is produced past times twill occupation alongside honour to the horizontal line. This twill angle depends on next factors.
- Ratio betwixt EPI together with PPI.
- Difference betwixt warp together with weft count.
- Rate of advancement it interlacement warp together with weft.
There are many derivatives of twill are given bellow;
- Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave.
- Hearing os twill.
- Diamond design.
- Diaper design.
- Broken twill.
- Elongated design.
- Stepped twill.
- Shaded twill.
- Combined twill.
- Rearranged twill
- It is the simplest together with 1 of the most of import modifications of twill weave produced past times reversing the management of twill at suitable interval.
- A dot is selected (usually the final warp is selected ) every bit the reversing dot together with so it is sometime telephone weep upwards every bit dot twill.
- In this twill pointed or conduct draft is used.
- This twill is produced past times combining southward together with Z twist.
- Horizontal zigzag twill.
- Vertical zigzag twill.
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| Horizontal zigzag twill |
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| Vertical zigzag twill |
This twill are constructed inwards a dissimilar way from the ordinary zigzag twill. Though it also depend on reversal of twill direction.
Here reversal management occurs afterward a middle line. Here at start the basic twill is drown together with so the publish of key dot is selected inwards zigzag twill. Rather inwards extended instant one-half of basic twill the next affair happened.
- The floating dot of start one-half overstep downwards inwards instant half.
- The downwards of start one-half overstep floating inwards instant half.
- Horizontal hearing os twill.
- Vertical hearing os twill.
When hearing os twill is created past times extending the basic twill inwards warp direction, horizontal hearing os outcome in. The repeat size of horizontal herringbone is calculated from the regular or base of operations twill weave similar every bit horizontal zigzag weave. In this instance the publish of warp yarn inwards herringbone weave is double of the publish of warp yarn of base of operations twill together with the publish of weft yarn is same every bit base of operations twill weave.
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| Horizontal hearing os twill |
When hearing os twill is created past times extending the basic twill inwards weft direction, vertical hearing os outcome in. The repeat size of vertical herringbone is calculated from the regular or base of operations twill weave similar every bit vertical zig-zag weave. In this instance the publish of weft yarn inwards herringbone weave is double of the publish of weft yarn of base of operations twill together with the publish of warp yarn is same every bit base of operations twill weave.
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| Vertical hearing os twill |
It is a derivatives of twill weave. It constructed on the solid set down of zigzag twill principle. It is obtain past times combining a horizontal together with vertical zigzag twill. So hither inwards the repeat the publish of both warp together with weft thread are double together with so that inwards basic twill. Diamond is a reversible design. So it may hold out divided into 2 equal parts inwards both vertical together with horizontal axis. Pointed or V-drafting scheme is used to gain diamond design.
Diamond pattern geometrical virtually at that spot vertical together with horizontal axis. In this weave pointed draft is obtained.
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| Diamond pattern |
Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow comprehend etc.
4. Diaper Design
This derivative of twill weave is created on the solid set down herring os principle. This pattern is constructed past times combining horizontal together with vertical hearing os twill.
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| Diaper Design |
Use: Same diamond.
5. Broken Twill
- This is obtain past times breaking the twill occupation of a regular twill. It is somewhat similar inwards appearance Zigzag twill.
- Broken twill tin hold out obtained inwards dissimilar ways. At start basic twill is divided into 2 section, together with so the start department unchanged together with the instant department is opposite its order, that is to tell if the basic twill is made upwards of viii warp threads namely1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 together with so its broken twill derivatives volition obtain the gild 1,2,3,48.7,6,5.
- Broken draft is used inwards broken twill.
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| Broken twill |
A peculiar shape of twill, known every bit an elongated or steep twill, is obtained when the warp float of each thread rises 2 or to a greater extent than picks instead of 1 selection to a higher identify the float of the preceding thread.
Normally the twill angle is 45 score where the terminate together with selection per unit of measurement expanse are equal .But inwards elongated twill, the twill angle to a greater extent than or less than 45 score whatsoever twill pattern without twill angle.
Elongated twill tin hold out formed inwards 2 dissimilar ways:
- With the assistance of pace number.
- By selecting starting of elongated twill alongside a base of operations line.
If the pace publish of elongated twill is two, together with so past times taking solely strange publish of warp thread from the basic twill hither the warp publish inwards pace twill volition hold out equal to the basic twill.
Here at start a pace publish is to hold out selected. In such a way that the repeat of base of operations occupation overstep devisable past times that pace number.
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| Elongated twill |
7. Stepped twill
These weaves are generated past times introducing a pace into the pattern afterward a for certain publish of ends or picks. At the step, every thread changes from upwards to downwards or vice versa. This are 2 type stepped twill-
(a)Warp way stepped twill:
There are 2 types of warp-way pace twill. One is created inwards the same twill management together with or so other 1 is created past times reversal of the twill direction.
Reversal of the twill direction: Same every bit horizontal herringbone twill weave.
(b) Weft way stepped twill:
There are also 2 types of weft-way pace twill similar every bit warp-way pace twill weave. One is created inwards the same twill management together with or so other 1 is created past times reversal of the twill direction.
Same twill direction: In the same twill management pace may hold out occur afterward the repeat or whatsoever desired publish of thread similar every bit warp-w ay pace twill weave.
Reversal of the twill direction: Same every bit vertical herringbone twill weave.
8. Shaded Twill
By shaded twill nosotros tin do shade outcome on stuff Shade outcome tin hold out gain inwards dissimilar way on the surface of the fabric. The shaded twill are of next type -
Single shaded twill:
- Shading outcome becomes gradually deep from sparse together with afterward existence deep it 1 time again starts to hold out sparse together with thence compute the whole repeat.
- It tin hold out caused past times continuous twill.
Double shaded twill:
- Shading outcome becomes gradually deep from sparse together with afterward existence deep it 1 time again starts to hold out sparse together with 1 time again becomes sparse gradually together with compute the whole repeat.
- These effects are produced from the regular multiple twill.
9. Combined twill
- Combined twill are formed past times combination of 2 continuous twill.
- According to this combination, at that spot are 2 types of combined twill, such every bit warp-way combined twill together with weft-way combined twill.
- In combined twill no practically limitations be together with varieties of pattern tin hold out produced.
- It may hold out both warp expression upwards together with weft face.
- It is capable of producing compact together with theatre tertures.
- In warp way combined twill divided draft together with weft way conduct draft are produced.
- In instance of equal no. of base of operations twill : 6x6, 6x6; or 8x8, 8x8.
- In instance of unequal no. of base of operations twill : 4x4, 6x6; or 8x8, 6x6.
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| Combined twill |
10. Rearranged twill
Rearrangement of twill is produced past times the transposition of the original gild of threads inwards the regular basic twill. The transposition may interrupt the continuation of twill occupation together with thence may an outcome of broken twill design. The twill tin hold out constructed past times –
One tin rearrange weaves past times changing the sequence of the warp ends.
The next figure stand upwards for five - terminate expanded weft twill 2/3 , rearranged every bit a steep or elongated twill past times changing the warp sequence to every 2d end. 
Rearranging the yarn grouping wise
With this type of rearrangement 1 divides the original weave into groups of 2 or to a greater extent than ends together with changes their sequence e.g. past times reversing it or arranging them inwards satin fashion.
Cork screw weave
Cork screw weaves are a diversity of rearranged twill. These weaves, also called diagonal ribs. The peculiar characteristic of corkscrew weaves is the combination of 2 or to a greater extent than distinct twill lines, which mayhap of dissimilar colors. They are used for garment for which they are capable of producing theatre together with compact textures of greater strength, warmth together with durability. They are of 2 kinds, such every bit
Even publish cork screw is produced from 2 dissimilar regular base of operations twill of the same repeat size. In this instance the publish of warp yarn inwards the repeat size of the resultant corkscrew weave volition hold out the total of the publish of warp yarn of the base of operations twill weave together with the publish of weft yarn is equal to the base of operations twill.
Odd publish corkscrew weave
Rearrangement of twill is produced past times the transposition of the original gild of threads inwards the regular basic twill. The transposition may interrupt the continuation of twill occupation together with thence may an outcome of broken twill design. The twill tin hold out constructed past times –
- Rearranging the yarn individually
- Rearranging the yarn grouping wise
- Cork screw weave
One tin rearrange weaves past times changing the sequence of the warp ends.
The next figure stand upwards for five - terminate expanded weft twill 2/3 , rearranged every bit a steep or elongated twill past times changing the warp sequence to every 2d end.
With this type of rearrangement 1 divides the original weave into groups of 2 or to a greater extent than ends together with changes their sequence e.g. past times reversing it or arranging them inwards satin fashion.
Cork screw weave
Cork screw weaves are a diversity of rearranged twill. These weaves, also called diagonal ribs. The peculiar characteristic of corkscrew weaves is the combination of 2 or to a greater extent than distinct twill lines, which mayhap of dissimilar colors. They are used for garment for which they are capable of producing theatre together with compact textures of greater strength, warmth together with durability. They are of 2 kinds, such every bit
- Odd publish corkscrew weave, together with
- Even publish cork screw weave.
Even publish cork screw is produced from 2 dissimilar regular base of operations twill of the same repeat size. In this instance the publish of warp yarn inwards the repeat size of the resultant corkscrew weave volition hold out the total of the publish of warp yarn of the base of operations twill weave together with the publish of weft yarn is equal to the base of operations twill.
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| Even publish cork screw weave |
- Rearrangement of continuous twill is satin gild
- Can hold out produced inwards both warp way together with weft way
- Weave is formed from strange no of warp together with weft yarn.
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| Odd publish corkscrew weave |
Advantages of twill weave
Twill weave are extensively used inwards manufacturing cloth for garments identify cloth together with industrial cloth.
- Twill weaves commonly brand fabrics closer inwards texture, heavier, together with stronger than do patently weaves.
- It is possible to gain to a greater extent than fancy designs inwards twills than inwards patently weaves.
- In add-on to their distinctive appearance together with high strength, twill fabrics tend to present soil less readily than plain-weave fabrics.
- The major advantages of a twill stuff are that it is durable together with wears well, resists soiling, together with has practiced resistance to wrinkling.
- Twills are to a greater extent than expensive to gain than plain-weave stuff
- It is to a greater extent than hard to laid clean than patently weave fabrics
- It commonly has a correct together with incorrect side which may brand garment pattern difficult.
- Unless given particular treatments, or so uneven twill fabrics produce garments that are prone to twisting or skewing on the torso afterward laundering.
Twill weave are extensively used inwards manufacturing cloth for garments identify cloth together with industrial cloth.
- Generally diamond, diaper together with zigzag twill are used for making pillow, cover, screen, bed sheet, towel etc.
- Continuous twill are used for making stuff for shirting, suiting together with panting(denim, gaberdine).
- For making diverse type of ornamental cloth, other derivatives of twill weave are used.
- Hearing os twill are used inwards the cloth of suiting together with overcoats.